Valve 318 question

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Pumpkinduster

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Hey guys I have finally got the car Almost ready for the road. With the 318 with 302 heads I have the stock rockers. If the are the stock rockers with no single adjuster, would there be any adjustment to make if there is a tick? Or could the tick be coming from a bad lifter?

The motor
0 miles on it. Block has been bored .30 over and 0 the deck height. I have a comp cam xe268h as a kit, timing gear / chain springs and lifters. Heads are 302 with valve grind nothing special new stock 1.78/1.50 valves.
Spark plugs are gapped .035 auto lite 65 there is a lot of sot but the car has been ran at an idle for most of the time other then the cam break in.

It sounds like a little tick from the drivers side valve cover. Just wondering if I can make an adjustment or need to pull lifters and check them?

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Besides running way rich you need to lengthen your kickdown linkage. It's too short. Your carburetor will be wide open before it even touches the end of that slot.
 
Besides running way rich you need to lengthen your kickdown linkage. It's too short. Your carburetor will be wide open before it even touches the end of that slot.
agree, and if the linkage won't adjust out that far, put a short bolt/nut in the slot to shorten the slot. A penny thought worth a dime :D
 
Edelbrock has a kickdown rod extension Part# 8004 (5/16ths rod), or 8003 (1/4 inch rod) that may solve that problem. summit, jegs, etc.
also seems to be missing the spring that holds the kickdown forward against the throttle stud.
 
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The tic - does it go away at higher rpms? if so it could be a lazy lifter, but since you changed the cam, I presume they are new lifters? Could also be worn or slightly bent pushrod or worn rocker arm (or both cumulatively) I assume you checked rocker shaft hold down torque?.

Does it get better when the engine is warmed up rather than cold? If so, could be headers ticking against the head. Are you running old style steel shim gaskets or a thick composite header gasket (they appear really thin in the picture)?
 
I will listen tomorrow to see if it continues when throttling up. Still audible at running temp. I do have the thin ones, determined today I am changing them out, they don’t seal for crap lol.

the lifters are brand new, I followed comp cams instructions before installing. I did not install new push rods or rocker arms all the original. Right now at tdc the rockers for cylinder 1 I can wiggle a little. 3 5 7 all don’t move while at tdc. I verified the torque as well.
 
cylinder 1 I can wiggle a little
That doesn't sound right to me. Lifter not pumped up, bent pushrod ,worn rocker as said? Did you check this after running or cold? If cold maybe lifter bleed down? When running do all pushrods rotate? Just thinking out loud.
 
Just thinking outloud but did you check the pushrod length? Since the block was zero decked factory pushrods would be too long. Also was the piston to valve clearance checked?
 
That doesn't sound right to me. Lifter not pumped up, bent pushrod ,worn rocker as said? Did you check this after running or cold? If cold maybe lifter bleed down? When running do all pushrods rotate? Just thinking out loud.
Haha I didnt even read your post and me and you are thinking rhe same thing
 
I bet the sound goes away with a new header gasket. Headers plus thin gasket equals exhaust leak, sounds jut like a valve train tic. Remflex and done.
 
I bet the sound goes away with a new header gasket. Headers plus thin gasket equals exhaust leak, sounds jut like a valve train tic. Remflex and done.

I hope your right .Exhaust leak and lifter tick can definitely sound the same.
 
I have an identical setup and I know I have a header exhaust leak, not the lifter. BUT my ear can tell the difference, even though they are similar. The lifter has has more of a "tick" like when you tap my wooden head with a drumstick, while the exhaust has more of a "pssk" similar to what an old guy lets out while walking.
 
Comp cams lifters? Sorry no adjustment with those rockers.
 
The rear most rocker arm looks to be the incorrect one for that position! that'll cause an issue! Check the order/position to be sure.
 
If not a header leak, Google "Comp Cams XE268 ticking noise"
I have used this cam a few times and it can be noisy. I have moved on from them for this reason. They run good but are known to a bit noisy. Hopefully it's doesn't have a flat lobe already too.
 
My 500 stroker has a XE295 hydraulic Comp. Cam. Runs awesome but sounds like marbles in the engine. Been over six years . I'm going solid cam soon cause it does drive me nuts !
I'm told the ramps close fast and stainless valves make the sound but don't really know.
 
comp cam designed in noise
valves close to fast and har
valve bounce without stiff springs
 
Those cams can be noisy. Even with the springs they call for.
 
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Edelbrock has a kickdown rod extension Part# 8004 (5/16ths rod), or 8003 (1/4 inch rod) that may solve that problem. summit, jegs, etc.
also seems to be missing the spring that holds the kickdown forward against the throttle stud.
Do you happen to have a picture of the spring setup? I have a few different springs.
 
I bet the sound goes away with a new header gasket. Headers plus thin gasket equals exhaust leak, sounds jut like a valve train tic. Remflex and done.
Remflex have been ordered - Thank you the current gaskets are thin
 
Do you happen to have a picture of the spring setup? I have a few different springs.

two photos below. first is on an STR-12 but it shows the type of spring that is stock for 1970 - runs from the kickdown pivot on the throttle bracket to the throttle stud on the carb (not on this one cause there're two carbs). Second photo is a different type of rod (I think stolen off a truck motor) it has a tab on the rod with a small spring to the throttle stud on the carb. The advantage here is that the rod is longer than a 318 rod and so you don't need the extension for the rod. The whole point of the spring is to hold the kickdown forward.
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I believe the slot in the end of the assembly is so that when you let up on the gas, the kickdown rod is not jerked into place with the throttle, but rather returns to that position on the pull of the spring. That's why I have always avoided the bolt in the slot deal. Can anybody confirm this?

By the way it looks in the photo that your throttle return springs (applauding two springs!) seem to be next to one another and sort of twined together. Usually you put the small diameter spring inside the large diameter spring so that each spring operates properly (see second photo)
 
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