Dad’s 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger 340
I know, I'm posting small piddly updates, but its what I get done each day. Yesterday I got the oil pan on. My method of sealing an oil pan is fairly simple. Permatex Black on both sides (thin film) of the cork gasket, as well as a thin film between the end seals and the (in this case) oil pan. Snug everything up so that you get sealant squeeze, then let it cure. Come back in 2 days to torque to 10 ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern... first to 5, then to 10. The book says spec is 15. I can’t imagine doing that much.
I cut off the extra nubs that didn't go through the holes that don't exist in the oil pan. I ended up getting a stock Summit oil pan... gold color. I also installed the damper for (I hope) the last time. Yesterday also saw my valve covers show up from Mancini Racing. I really wanted the Mopar Performance ones, but seeing as they have been discontinued, I went with what I could get. I like them. Might try to fashion some "340" badgets for the blank space. The carburetor is for my son... he wanted another picture.
I also worked on the rockers yesterday. As you may remember when @Valkman reviewed these rockers, the larger clamps that go on the #2 and #4 studs to hold the shaft down were too wide. Through some measurement, I figured it to be about 0.100" too wide. No problem, we have a complete machine shop at work. Shaved 0.055" off each side, and the clearance came out about as perfect as it could. Here is the installed (test fit) set:
Today... I dont know. The clutch showed up, and I could take the engine off the stand and install the rear freeze plugs and the flywheel (new bolts), and then the clutch (new bolts as well). I havent done the valve train (lifters, pushrods, and rockers are still out). That said, I dont think it would be a bad idea to just tape up the heads and install it without the valve train, then put it in after. Decisions decisions...
I know, I'm posting small piddly updates, but its what I get done each day. Yesterday I got the oil pan on. My method of sealing an oil pan is fairly simple. Permatex Black on both sides (thin film) of the cork gasket, as well as a thin film between the end seals and the (in this case) oil pan. Snug everything up so that you get sealant squeeze, then let it cure. Come back in 2 days to torque to 10 ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern... first to 5, then to 10. The book says spec is 15. I can’t imagine doing that much.
I cut off the extra nubs that didn't go through the holes that don't exist in the oil pan. I ended up getting a stock Summit oil pan... gold color. I also installed the damper for (I hope) the last time. Yesterday also saw my valve covers show up from Mancini Racing. I really wanted the Mopar Performance ones, but seeing as they have been discontinued, I went with what I could get. I like them. Might try to fashion some "340" badgets for the blank space. The carburetor is for my son... he wanted another picture.
I also worked on the rockers yesterday. As you may remember when @Valkman reviewed these rockers, the larger clamps that go on the #2 and #4 studs to hold the shaft down were too wide. Through some measurement, I figured it to be about 0.100" too wide. No problem, we have a complete machine shop at work. Shaved 0.055" off each side, and the clearance came out about as perfect as it could. Here is the installed (test fit) set:
Today... I dont know. The clutch showed up, and I could take the engine off the stand and install the rear freeze plugs and the flywheel (new bolts), and then the clutch (new bolts as well). I havent done the valve train (lifters, pushrods, and rockers are still out). That said, I dont think it would be a bad idea to just tape up the heads and install it without the valve train, then put it in after. Decisions decisions...