Close as you will come to getting an OEM fuel sender..

Hello All,

To answer some of the questions posted i offer the following.

The picture of the sender installed into the tank was taken with my I Phone wile the tank was on the bench looking through the filler neck hole.

The testing so far was done with the "Q/C / possible damage" issues in tact to represent what someone could expect when buying this product. As Dart 67 originally stated (and I totally agree with him) Quote "But still needs a little calibration".
I only bought the sender to play with on the bench and see if it was any good. No intentions of sending it back other then probably in the recycling bin although I may correct the issues and re-test it just for fun and then send it to the recycling bin.
The testing was done in the jig at plumb so there would be a constant in case I wanted to do any other testing at a later date and or compare this sender to another manufactures sender and or it would limit the unknown / uncontrollable variables that would be encountered wile installed in the tank / car. That part of the test will be done with the tank on the bench and wired up to the cluster.
The fault noted at 0 degrees could be numerous. Resistor board design, placement of board in relation to arm travel, wound wire incorrectly spaced and so on. The other issue is that if the original design was 10 to 70 Ohm throughout the arms sweep it was noted that the Ohm reading was 80.7 Ohm and not 70.0 Ohm at full travel down (E). Possibly may only need to adjust the stop for empty ?
I was planing to "calibrate' the gauge with a combination of three things to see if there is any notable differences. OEM style IVL, Solid State IVL, and my trusty Siglent SPD3303X-E in conjunction with three known value resisters providing the load on the gauge.
Will keep you updated when test two is finished.
Thanks in advance,
Stay Safe.....
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.