What are these Connectors called??

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Thanatos340

Thanatos340

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I am rewiring a 74 Duster. Built out a new panel and all new wiring but wanted to use factory style connectors to connect to the Steering Column Connectors.

Trying to find the Male Pins. Looks like two sizes. What are these Pin Connectors called and where can I buy them?
IMG_20200322_215152.jpg
 
I have seen some Molex connector kits with various sizes on Ebay too.
 
Big red = power
Black should always be ground.
Match the connector to the connector and all should reveal itself.
Thanatos340 said:
I am rewiring a 74 Duster. Built out a new panel and all new wiring but wanted to use factory style connectors to connect to the Steering Column Connectors.

Trying to find the Male Pins. Looks like two sizes. What are these Pin Connectors called and where can I buy them?
View attachment 1715492069
Click to expand...
 
I'll take back that red X if you delete the black should always be ground.
While most ground wires in the car are black, the most important feed wires in the harness are also Black.
To remember this, think of it like house wiring. Black is a hot.
 
Mattax said:
I'll take back that red X if you delete the black should always be ground.
While most ground wires in the car are black, the most important feed wires in the harness are also Black.
To remember this, think of it like house wiring. Black is a hot.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information. I have the Molex Pins ordered and will report back when they come in on how well they work.

What I am doing is a little different but should be pretty nice when complete. This car is going to be a Street-Strip/ProStreet Build. I am doing a full EFI Conversion on it and going with a Holley Super Sniper XFlow system. I am also using their Hyperspark Ignition, Coil and Distributor on it.

When I got this car, The wiring was the worst I have ever seen. Step one was to rip out every wire in it. I did leave the Harness for the Headlights and turn signals in tact as well as the Harness to the rear of the car as those had not been butchered. (First Picture is car as it was when I got it)

I then built a custom panel and harness to be mounted Inside the firewall in the Passengers side. This panel contains the Fusebox, Ignition Box and MSD Solid State Relay to be used for the Nitrous system. (Second Pic)

Now I am terminating the custom Harness to plug right into factory harnesses that I left intact (Steering Column (Yes I replaced the one in the first picture), New Firewall Connector, Connector to Rear Lights and Connector to Brake Lights.)

IMG_20191130_104918 (1).jpg
IMG_20200323_135938.jpg
IMG_20200323_135930.jpg
 
Nope, I will certainly will not and thank you for the correction. From here, I myself would just open up the electrical schematics. I can read them. I know many can not. I’m not going to check though.

Mattax said:
I'll take back that red X if you delete the black should always be ground.
While most ground wires in the car are black, the most important feed wires in the harness are also Black.
To remember this, think of it like house wiring. Black is a hot.
Click to expand...
 
Thanatos340 said:
When I got this car, The wiring was the worst I have ever seen. Step one was to rip out every wire in it. I did leave the Harness for the Headlights and turn signals in tact as well as the Harness to the rear of the car as those had not been butchered. (First Picture is car as it was when I got it)

I then built a custom panel and harness to be mounted Inside the firewall in the Passengers side. This panel contains the Fusebox, Ignition Box and MSD Solid State Relay to be used for the Nitrous system. (Second Pic)

Now I am terminating the custom Harness to plug right into factory harnesses that I left intact (Steering Column (Yes I replaced the one in the first picture), New Firewall Connector, Connector to Rear Lights and Connector to Brake Lights.)
Click to expand...
Sound liike a good plan.
I think with EFI a change in the original wiring strategy is the best approach.
With the key in the column, it seems have become a trouble spot. They started splitting the power going to and from the key switch to reduce the load on the wires and connectors. I'm sure you have it figured by now.
Headlight circuits in the A-bodies were underwired most years. I think its because the headlights originally used drew less power. Around 73 or 74 they changed the headlights to the newer, higher draw bulbs but didn't change the wiring. Just 18 awg from the hi/low switch to the lamps. :( If you haven't yet, relays really help on these cars.
 
Mattax said:
Sound liike a good plan.
I think with EFI a change in the original wiring strategy is the best approach.
With the key in the column, it seems have become a trouble spot. They started splitting the power going to and from the key switch to reduce the load on the wires and connectors. I'm sure you have it figured by now.
Headlight circuits in the A-bodies were underwired most years. I think its because the headlights originally used drew less power. Around 73 or 74 they changed the headlights to the newer, higher draw bulbs but didn't change the wiring. Just 18 awg from the hi/low switch to the lamps. :( If you haven't yet, relays really help on these cars.
Click to expand...

Yep. Have to Jump the Blue and Brown Wires (IGN 1 and IGN 2) to get power while cranking. Also as noted above, The Black Wire from the Ignition switch is defiantly not a Ground. It is the ACC circuit and Hot while the Key is in Run and when in ACC position.

Thanks for the tip on Headlight wiring. I am using relays for the headlights already. Actually have everything on Relays inside the pro-street board. Only external relay I am using is for the Cranking Circuit so I can use the Neutral Safety Switch in the trans (Breaking the Ground Side) with the positive for the relay coming from the Key Switch.

Once I get those Pins and get everything terminated, I get to smoke test this thing. Hoping all that magic smoke stays inside when I put juice to it. ;p
 
Mattax said:
I'll take back that red X if you delete the black should always be ground.
While most ground wires in the car are black, the most important feed wires in the harness are also Black.
To remember this, think of it like house wiring. Black is a hot.
Click to expand...

You are mixing two different wiring standards.

For DC circuits (used in automotive apps) the standard is RED is positive (hot). Black is negative (ground).

For AC circuits (used in residential wiring) the standard is BLACK is positive (hot), WHITE is neutral (should be same as ground), and GREEN is true ground.

AC and DC electricity is NOT the same.
 
69DodgeMan said:
You are mixing two different wiring standards.

For DC circuits (used in automotive apps) the standard is RED is positive (hot). Black is negative (ground).
Click to expand...

Through all of the years we deal with, Chrysler used black for alternator output, which is the main power source.
Accessory feed wires were also consistantly black.

I jumped on Rob's statement because there's been a few guys recently who have thought the black wire on the ammeter or ignition switch is a negative (ground). Not only are they not a ground - they are ALWAYS HOT. If they ground those wires, they will melt the fusible link. And that will be a best case scenario.

I suggested the residential wiring as away to remember that Chrysler used black as well as red (and many other colors) on the positive side.
 
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69DodgeMan said:
You are mixing two different wiring standards.

For DC circuits (used in automotive apps) the standard is RED is positive (hot). Black is negative (ground).

For AC circuits (used in residential wiring) the standard is BLACK is positive (hot), WHITE is neutral (should be same as ground), and GREEN is true ground.

AC and DC electricity is NOT the same.
Click to expand...

While I agree with you in principal as that is how it should be, The reality is Black is NOT always Ground or DC Negative on Mopar factory wiring. The Ignition Switch wiring that we are discussing is one such example. There are 5 wires from the Factory Switch:

Red -> 12V + to Switch
Blue -> IGN 1 (Hot when Key is in Run Position)
Brown -> IGN 2 (Hot when Key is in Start Position)
Yellow -> Start (Hot When Key is in Start Position)
Black -> ACC (Hot when Key is in ACC and Run Position)

The suggestion that:
Big red = power
Black should always be ground.
Match the connector to the connector and all should reveal itself.
Click to expand...

Is incorrect. Black is NOT always Ground and if you run the Ignition Switch Black wire to ground, you will have a straight short soon as you turn the key. Something will get damaged or blown.

Just pointing this out because as Rob said, Not everyone can read a schematic. Assuming that Black is always ground can bite you.

I respect and appreciate all of you guys input but it is important that we keep accurate information out there for those that do actually use the search function.
 
Mattax said:
If you can verify those connectors use Molex Standard .094" and .062" terminals, please let us know.
Wire-to-Wire Connectors - Molex
We can then add that info to
Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals
Click to expand...

The Molex Pins came in today. I got the .093 14-20 AGW Molex Pins and .063 18-24 AGW Molex Pins.
The .093 Pins do fit the Smaller Female Connectors in the Turn Signal harness but are a little loose in the housing. The .063`s Are just too small for anything.

More research and it looks like Mate-N-Lok Connectors may be a better choice than Molex. These look a lot close to what was used for the Ignition Switch Harness Connectors.
https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...shENG_CD_350922_Y3_baseFilename.pdf350922-3

Getting these ordered now.
 
Bummer, Glad you found another that looks more promising.
 
Did you get the Mate-n-Lok connectors and did they work? Would like to know do to doing a complete rewire on the dodge and would like to use the connectors to the steering column as you are talking about. Thanks
 
I
Pawned said:
Dorthy and william
Click to expand...

just read over these posts quickly , ''maybe learn something'' . I remember back when I rewired my car w/ an E Z system , I had to tie 3 wires together on the switch to get power to start , Sean at E Z advised me to do so.
Has worked great for about 9-10 yrs . -------so far so good.
Had it all neat and good looking till I decided to go FI , and changed a few gauges , now a mess almost as bad as the factory jungle .
I did carefully remove the factory pins and reused/relocated them to match the
GM based E Z system , where I reused the chrysler plug ins. on everything , including the steering column plug in .-----fingurs still crossed.
 
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