Old man with old car, new here with questions

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Whoah-whoah-whoah. That's wrong. The heater vacuum hose is meant to connect to a fitting on the № 6 (rearmost) intake manifold runner. That carb fitting is for your PCV. Can't tell from these pics, but perhaps your '62 was neither a California nor a New York car, and has the old road draft tube instead of PCV, in which case see here.



That's correct—if your manifold fitting has only one large nipple for the power brake hose, and doesn't have a small nipple for the heater vacuum hose, you'll want to either get a fitting that has both sizes or tee off the large hose connected to the intake manifold.


?
Dan, you mentioned a 1962. Mine is a 1960. It may not matter?
1) The valve cover has a road draft tube which is mounted by the factory. No PCV. A picture is attached.
2) The only item attached to the intake manifold is the vac line going to the power brake booster and then to a vacuum tank. Pictures attached.
3) You attached a "here" in the event I do not have a PCV valve but it did not open. It went to a blank page.
4) Are the O ring and the grommet still possibilities for my car since it is a 1960 instead of a 1962?
5) The old messed up carb had a vacuum line that went to an EGR valve on the manifold that was replaced. I capped it off and will blank it off.
6) Should I reconnect the heater vacuum line by putting a "T" into the brake line
Should I blank off the vac port if I move it?
7) If you tell me the O ring and the grommet will or may work on my 1960 I will get them both.
8) The vent line from the tank does up into the wheel well fairly high and then goes back down and under the back of the trunk where it is open. I will need to reroute a portion of the line.
9)

Thank you, Hank



Interesting idea. Can you point us at what you bought?



The '62 cars didn't use a grommet like the '63-'66 cars. They used an O-ring, part № 2073 938 (buy one here) and a rubber-over-steel seal plate № 2242 359 (buy here). Starting in '63 the rubber-over-steel plate is the same, but the O-ring was replaced by a sturdier grommet № 2203 473. I don't know whether or how easily one could upgrade to the '63+ grommet, but if you want to try, you can buy one here.



Ugh. When repairing this, make sure to route the vent line correctly. It needs to rise way up high, then make a U-turn and head back down and out through the trunk floor. If no high U-turn, you'll piss gasoline out the vent.

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OK, so yeah, you still have the road draft tube. Worth going to PCV instead (oil/engine stay much cleaner, no crankcase stench inside car). I've fixed the broken "see here" link in my previous post in this thread; it now goes where it's supposed to.
 
Dan, the pictures were sent without me completing my write up. Sorry. You mentioned a 1962. Mine is a 1960. It may not matter?
1) The valve cover has a road draft tube which is mounted by the factory. No PCV. A picture is attached. *** I saw your next Email on the PCV and will do that. I am asking you what you would want for the PCV set up.
2) The only item attached to the intake manifold is the vac line going to the power brake booster and then to a vacuum tank. Pictures attached.
3) You attached a "here" in the event I do not have a PCV valve but it did not open. It went to a blank page.***I got your information.
4) Are the O ring and the grommet still possibilities for my car since it is a 1960 instead of a 1962? 7) If you tell me the O ring and the grommet will or may work on my 1960 I will get them both.
5) The old messed up carb had a vacuum line that went to an EGR valve on the manifold that was replaced. I capped it off and will also blank it off.
6) Should I reconnect the heater vacuum line by putting a "T" into the brake line

I will run a new Vac line from that port to the new PCV.
7) The vent line from the tank does go up into the wheel well fairly high and then goes back down and under the back of the trunk where it is open. I will need to reroute a portion of the line. Fumes into the car is not a good idea.
8) I was getting the information on the electronic voltage unit for you when I goofed the reply. See picture below. Amazon had one until I went to order and they are out right now so I found another one from a company that is not US. Input can be anywhere between 8 and 22 volts and the output can be set anywhere from 1 to 15 volt. The output must remain 3 volts below the input. Weather proof and very small. Will handle 3Amps or 300Watt. Should handle the choke heater. I will let you know how it works. It's a few weeks before I get it.
Thank you, Hank

DC Buck Voltage Regulator DC8-22V to 1-15V 5/12V 3A Adjustable Power Supply / Power Adapter Step Down Converter
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CN


Thank you, Hank
 
Just wanted to say welcome, glad you bought the car and are working on it so hard! Keep up the great work, and enjoy the car and forum. As you can tell, lots of great people here eager to help!
 
Just wanted to say welcome, glad you bought the car and are working on it so hard! Keep up the great work, and enjoy the car and forum. As you can tell, lots of great people here eager to help!
Hi, thank you for the welcome. I just watched your Utube video at the car show. Awesome car. Comparison is my car $1 and your car $$$$$. Beautiful and desirable vehicle. Hank
 
Hi, thank you for the welcome. I just watched your Utube video at the car show. Awesome car. Comparison is my car $1 and your car $$$$$. Beautiful and desirable vehicle. Hank
Thank you, I appreciate the compliment, I compete with the car in the Custom category on the show circuit, so mine is no longer a "driver" , but let me tell you something. I just LOVE to see everyone's projects and to encourage them to do whatever they want with their cars, yours is a very unique and seldom restored car, and I am thrilled that you are investing the time and money into it to preserve and keep it on the road for people to enjoy the car. As you probably know, the 64 & 65 Barracudas have a ton of Valiant influences in the car (they built the barracuda using the valiant platform). Many things on the car actually still have the blue and red valiant badging (the font turn signals, the rear window chrome, etc).
 
Hank,
:welcome::welcome::welcome:
You mentioned early on that your leaf springs were flat. I would suggest that you get ahold of ESPO Springs and Things. New leaf springs are relatively cheap and a good investment in your vehicle, often as cheap as various 'patches' to kinda make things work.

I Love your car!!! I go to lots of Mopar shows and events and it's always cool to see something different than the usual suspects and even better to see them on the road being driven. Another source to keep in mind is Wildcat Auto Wrecking near Sandy, Oregon. It's a big Mopar only wrecking yard that is well known and does a lot of business shipping far and wide. I mention it because Ed Yost who owns the place runs a 61 or 62 A-body drag car (383) that is a gasser style racer. They are really partial to these cars and have a bunch in the yard for hard parts and little pieces that you can't get new.
 
Hank,
:welcome::welcome::welcome:
You mentioned early on that your leaf springs were flat. I would suggest that you get ahold of ESPO Springs and Things. New leaf springs are relatively cheap and a good investment in your vehicle, often as cheap as various 'patches' to kinda make things work.

I Love your car!!! I go to lots of Mopar shows and events and it's always cool to see something different than the usual suspects and even better to see them on the road being driven. Another source to keep in mind is Wildcat Auto Wrecking near Sandy, Oregon. It's a big Mopar only wrecking yard that is well known and does a lot of business shipping far and wide. I mention it because Ed Yost who owns the place runs a 61 or 62 A-body drag car (383) that is a gasser style racer. They are really partial to these cars and have a bunch in the yard for hard parts and little pieces that you can't get new.

Thank you for the welcome and the information on leaf springs and parts. I will certainly check them out. Working on an old vehicle that has a lot of challenges can be like going on a long road trip and wondering if you will ever get there. When you finally arrive it is very satisfying.
 
Working on an old vehicle that has a lot of challenges can be like going on a long road trip and wondering if you will ever get there. When you finally arrive it is very satisfying.

Being an aficionado of long road trips, remember that the point is often not getting to the destination, but all the things you'll see, experiences you'll have and people you will meet along the way that is the point of the journey. I'm sure you will meet many helpful fellow travelers here on FABO!
 
Hank, it would probably be a good idea to explore each section of the forum and post your questions there, instead of lengthening out your welcome thread. Just a thought. You'll get quicker and more accurate responses, I believe.
 
Being an aficionado of long road trips, remember that the point is often not getting to the destination, but all the things you'll see, experiences you'll have and people you will meet along the way that is the point of the journey. I'm sure you will meet many helpful fellow travelers here on FABO!
Hank, it would probably be a good idea to explore each section of the forum and post your questions there, instead of lengthening out your welcome thread. Just a thought. You'll get quicker and more accurate responses, I believe.
You are right. I have taken too long on the thread. I was getting great help and wanted to finish. I will look at how to get other threads going. Thanks for the reminder.
 
Hank, it would probably be a good idea to explore each section of the forum and post your questions there, instead of lengthening out your welcome thread. Just a thought. You'll get quicker and more accurate responses, I believe.
Being an aficionado of long road trips, remember that the point is often not getting to the destination, but all the things you'll see, experiences you'll have and people you will meet along the way that is the point of the journey. I'm sure you will meet many helpful fellow travelers here on FABO!
That was also my favorite saying so I agree with you. Sometimes we forget the main point. Hank
 
Welcome to the forum. I have a 61 wagon I am building at the moment. It was built in early November 1960 so it still has a couple of 1960 pieces on it. All the best with the 60.
 
Welcome to the forum. I have a 61 wagon I am building at the moment. It was built in early November 1960 so it still has a couple of 1960 pieces on it. All the best with the 60.
Thank you, I am learning the pros and cons of the early models. As always they are life's little challenges. Best wishes to you as well.
 
^^^ All these old Mopars have their pros and cons, some can be harder than others but they all take work money, time. My 62 Lancer has some hard things about it but 60-1 are harder yet.
 
^^^ All these old Mopars have their pros and cons, some can be harder than others but they all take work money, time. My 62 Lancer has some hard things about it but 60-1 are harder yet.
You're right about the time, work and money. To make it into a daily driver costs twice the original price in 1960 and you spend hundreds of hours of work and research. If you ever sell it you lose money, if it's not a show piece. The good news is we aren't sitting on our duffs and are probably staying a little healthier mentally and physically and have some decent vehicles that folks may have never seen before.
 
^^^ I agree! Several things keep us going in life as we get older, exercise, good food, not TOO much alcohol, did I say exercise, and having a dream and going after that dream.
 
We'll I did the dumb old guy thing and purchased a car off a site without looking. 550 miles away so I took a chance.

I am determined to fix it. It is a 1960 Valiant 170 cu in, automatic, 4 door. Speedo states 97,000 Mi. I have it running and driving. The car has 4 very new Michelins, newer alternator and new brake parts in the trunk. There are photos of the carburetor and one of the car attached.
View attachment 1715521244 View attachment 1715521246View attachment 1715521248 View attachment 1715521249 View attachment 1715521250 View attachment 1715521251 View attachment 1715521247

Questions to which I have not found answers: 1) Did the 1960 BBS 2901s carburetor have a pull off valve? 2) Are ANY Carter cars usable to retrofit that unit? 3) the car sways on the road like a boat in water with waves. What was the primary cause?

I still have a lot to do on the car but with some helpful input from you folks I will get it done.

Thank you, Hank

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That's actually a young guy thing. I'm still with the never buy a car sight unseen motto. My father would roll over in his grave if I ever did.
 
That's actually a young guy thing. I'm still with the never buy a car sight unseen motto. My father would roll over in his grave if I ever did.
Of course you're right. Once in a while I break down and tell myself that people are honest. I do know better.
 
Of course you're right. Once in a while I break down and tell myself that people are honest. I do know better.
I really wish they all were. I did alot of driving to look at cars through the years. Unbelievable what people label as nice. I have some crazy stories. Anyway enjoy your car. So much fun.
 
I have bought more than few crsove the phone.Pics are generally worthless unless the guy is honst and takes closeups of all the bad spots he mentions over the phone. My first question to the seller is" are you a CAR guy (or girl) "?????? If they won't give a cell # to call I forge,t the whole deal.
I went this morning to look at a 72 Dart, bad pics, but only 30 miles way and I have to go that way anyway. Nice body BUT no dash!!!!! He really did not understand about vin tags. I knew it was a no title deal to begin with. BUT!!!
Sellers that come off as evasive are generally a bad deal. An honest person tries hard to be forth coming and give all info as to the good and bad. Any seller tells the good,then I ask about the not good,the BAD!!!!!!! He knows unless a person without a clue and there are those too!!
 
That looks like a neat old car! If I were you I would definitely be using jack stands! You can never be too careful!
 
That looks like a neat old car! If I were you I would definitely be using jack stands! You can never be too careful!
Absolutely. Just FYI, the blocks you see are all screwed together in opposite directions so that on top the wheels sit inside the supports. Some people call them cribs. They actually give better support and lock the wheels in place. I also have jacks under the front and rear of the car but they are hard to see. Then before I go under I also use a hydraulic jack under the rear end. It's too easy to make mistakes as we get older so we need to believe that we are prone to accidents. Also FYI I did not use the ramp in the back. But I do appreciate the reminder to stay safe.
 
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