How To Install an Ignition Switch in 1970 Dodge Dart
Wait what? This sounds interesting, and may be the solution to the mystery! But, I don't understand what you are saying I need to do. I do have floor shift. It was converted from column at some point. I don't know what year the column came out of, because the car was like it when I bought it.
YES, there is a baby black wire that came connected in the harness (Standard Ignition Brand unit). There was also a large (like all others) Black wire and red wire. The instructions indicated that if not a 1976 model, you simply push the Red and black thick wires into the 2 marked empty positions on the harness. I did this. But, what am I to do exactly with the baby thin black wire? I am not following your instructions.
The issue worsened. I bought a new ignition switch. I put it in and regained power to all the correct wires with key turn positions, as it should. But, still no power to the brand new MSD 6aL that I just bought and swapped. So, then I went to another strategy. My Ground Wires.
Yesterday I added all new Ground Wires. I used 4 gauge and ran the following:
4 gauge from Neg Pole of Battery to the Radiator Core Support
4 gauge from Neg Pole of Battery to the inner fender
4 gauge from Neg Pole of Battery to Frame Rail
New braided strap from rear of block to the bell housing
8 gauge wire from steering column (right below the diamond cut out section, and anchored to the firewall.
8 gauge wire from upper steering column to mounting bracket bolt to dash.
8 gauge wire from under dash (just left of the emergency brake handle to the steering column mount.
The issue worsened. My ignition switch has not failed yet, but NOW, as soon as I turn the key to the accessory notch the main in-line 30 amp fuse pops!
I am sure 30 amps is way too much, and I intend on bringing that down to 20 amp once I finally get this all resolved.
Wait what? This sounds interesting, and may be the solution to the mystery! But, I don't understand what you are saying I need to do. I do have floor shift. It was converted from column at some point. I don't know what year the column came out of, because the car was like it when I bought it.
YES, there is a baby black wire that came connected in the harness (Standard Ignition Brand unit). There was also a large (like all others) Black wire and red wire. The instructions indicated that if not a 1976 model, you simply push the Red and black thick wires into the 2 marked empty positions on the harness. I did this. But, what am I to do exactly with the baby thin black wire? I am not following your instructions.
The issue worsened. I bought a new ignition switch. I put it in and regained power to all the correct wires with key turn positions, as it should. But, still no power to the brand new MSD 6aL that I just bought and swapped. So, then I went to another strategy. My Ground Wires.
Yesterday I added all new Ground Wires. I used 4 gauge and ran the following:
4 gauge from Neg Pole of Battery to the Radiator Core Support
4 gauge from Neg Pole of Battery to the inner fender
4 gauge from Neg Pole of Battery to Frame Rail
New braided strap from rear of block to the bell housing
8 gauge wire from steering column (right below the diamond cut out section, and anchored to the firewall.
8 gauge wire from upper steering column to mounting bracket bolt to dash.
8 gauge wire from under dash (just left of the emergency brake handle to the steering column mount.
The issue worsened. My ignition switch has not failed yet, but NOW, as soon as I turn the key to the accessory notch the main in-line 30 amp fuse pops!
I am sure 30 amps is way too much, and I intend on bringing that down to 20 amp once I finally get this all resolved.