Door Striker post?

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Bronze Barracuda

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See pictures. Is this called the striker post? Mine are loose on both the passenger and drivers side. It looks like they should be welded? But on the back side they seem to be fastened by some sort of clasp. The doors open and shut perfectly fine. But I have everything apart and feel like I should address this while getting new quarter panels.

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It looks factory to me. But it looks like the surrounding metal has cracked. Mine started to do that and I welded it back before it got worse
 
Definitely, mine was cracked too and had to be welded while the quarter panel was off. It must have been a weakness in the steel around the reinforcement by factory.
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It should not be welded on. It is suposed to be adjustable

This is what it should look like
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I would guess that yours was welded on because some one broke the stud and that was the easy way out.

This is what it should look like,

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Trying to post a picture of mine in here but it’s not going through.
Mine looks like Dana67s picture haha
 
Common problem on these cars. The proper repair is to reinforce that area with a plate on the backside and then re-install the "nut" and cage. There are enough threads on the striker to compensate for the additional thickness.
 
This is caused by worn door hinges. The door sags and the latch slams into the striker. If your doing quarters you can weld a second plate on the inside to spread the load out further. Nobody will ever see it and it will be stronger than original.
 
This is caused by poor design. Every time you open or close the door, the surrounding sheet metal flexes. This leads to stress cracking. That is why the re-enforcing plate is needed to stop the flexing.
 
Quarter panels are not off yet. Just able to peek in through the rear window area with rear interior panel removed. That clasp on the back, does it look stock to anyone or was this an older style repair method? Who knows how many times a 52 year old car has been Mickey mouse'd around with. So best method seems to be the plate from one of the various suppliers welded on back side then just screw original striker post back in? Seems strong enough for me. I can't feel any play whatsoever in my door hinges but rubber seal has deteriorated quite a lot. Maybe it has been striking to hard when door is being shut?
 
Door hinges should be rebuilt (bushing kit) along with the repair mentioned in the previous posts. I did this to my 69 Cuda and when all done adjusted the latch mechanism on the door. No more rattling door and the door closes with out having to lift at the handle.
 
You may not feel movement in the door hinges with the door all the way open due to egg shape wear and detent spring. Body lines should show it with door closed. Open the door just enough to lift it. A member here offers hinge rebuild service.
 
What you have is factory. I repaired both of mine when I had the quarter panels apart. I drilled out the spot welds that hold the capture plate on. Cut a larger patch panel out of the old quarter which I welded on the inside and then welded the cracked metal back. Used the original hole as a guide to drill out the post hole in the patch and spot welded the capture plate back in.
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FABO member 'MoparLeo' rebuilds your door hinges. Check out his service.
 
What you have is factory. I repaired both of mine when I had the quarter panels apart. I drilled out the spot welds that hold the capture plate on. Cut a larger patch panel out of the old quarter which I welded on the inside and then welded the cracked metal back. Used the original hole as a guide to drill out the post hole in the patch and spot welded the capture plate back in.
View attachment 1715544278 View attachment 1715544279 View attachment 1715544281
Looks a lot stronger. Is it holding up nice?
 
The repair plate from Dynamic even has the capture bracket for the nut on the back. I got both sides done when I had to get some other body repairs. Dynamic also has reinforcement plates for the door handles and one to go in the door for the side view mirror where you always distort the sheet metal when you tighten it down...
 
So far so good but I have t tested it a lot as the car is still being put back together. It should hold up for at least another 50 years though
Yeah that's the truth. Definitely fixing these old cars to a tougher than "just make em to out last the warranty" I knew a tranny guy who once said he could easily design a transmission to last a million miles, the tough part is engineering it to fail at a given time.
 
Bringing up an old thread as my striker post is missing. Does this look like a repair/upgrade has been done? I can see mig wire in there.
I would like to address this now if need be as I'm working on doors.
Thanks
Steve

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Someone cut out and welded in one from a Donor. Looks good on the inside. I would seam seal the welds so water doesn't seep into the welds.
 
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