Brake Light Switch

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frumharlem

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Good morning,

Can anyone share any insight on how to remove the Stop Light Switch? I looked on YouTube and none of the older models are shown.I don't have brake lights, and with my test light I am getting ho on both terminals of the switch at all times. I am thinking that should bot be, and it is an indication of a bad switch, broken rubber stop or something. I can turn the cylinder of the switch and I can see what looks like a nub on the outside, like it would line up with a slot and slide out, but tuning does not match any slot. The new switches at the auto parts stores are all threaded plastic cylinders, so that is easy to assemble. I just can't figure removal of the original one out.
 
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If you are working on an A body this pictures is of a complete brake pedal assembly if you look at it you can see where the the switch bracket is bolted in remove the switch and bracket that is the only way to get the switch out of the bracket. The bolt is accessible from the right side of the column.
 
I don't like those switches. You can get an adjustable one. I forget what they fit maybe early Chev?
 
If both wires at switch are hot the switch is closed, brake lamps should be on. Faulty turn signal switch can interrupt brake lamp circuit while signals still work properly.
 
It is hard to see the bolt head when you have a good view of the switch like in the above picture. Once you can see the bolt head that holds the sliding bracket in, it isn’t so bad. You just have to get in the right position and know a good chiropractor when you are done...
 
This OEM switch has a spring steel collar for keeper in the bracket. switch is mostly plastic. Take the screw all the way out of the bracket and it will be even more difficult to put it back again. So how did the dealers service techs conquer this service? Destroy the plastic switch. You might push the pedal far enough away to insert a new switch but... might not. New switch might need readjust anyway. So... Loosen the screw only enough to get the brackets paw out of the slot. Rotate bracket 90 degrees and snug up the screw again. At some point the wire terminals should be removed. Destroy the switch with channel lock plier or whatever. Insert new switch. Reposition bracket so ohm meter shows its open. Attach wire terminals.
This replacement switch will work and it does include two utility nuts for keeper.
https://www.autozone.com/electrical...PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:IGN:71700000043798772
You'll position the switch where ohm meter shows its open and snug the nut before attaching wires. Notice the end of this switch plunger/button is smaller than OEM. A bracket that is bent a little along with a little left/right movement in the pedal can allow the pedal to miss this smaller button. We've seen the pedal miss the OEM button in at least one thread here over the years.
 
One small point which many people seem to miss. Adjust the switch so that it is fully open, but not bottomed out with the pedal free. The switch should not hinder the motion of the pedal, only sense it. If the switch stops the pedal from fully returning, then the fill port in the Master Cylinder may not completely open and will not work correctly.
 
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