Swapped to Muscle - 75 Duster Daily build

Little bit of an update.

Continued to work on the temp gauge. Got a new temp switch/senor and installed that. While I was there, I swapped out the thermostat from the current 200 degree to a 180 degree unit. Got it all bolted up and installed. Ran the car for about 10-ish minutes, and sure enough, the temp gauge started going up!! Really stoked about that.

MVIMG_20200618_155301.jpg IMG_20200618_203254.jpg

Once that was fixed, I moved on to getting the front suspension prepped for the new goodies. Started to soak down the bolts with some good ol' PB Blaster.

While soaking, I moved to figure out the turn signals. I started off with the fuse panel to see if there were any fuses that needed to be replaced. Most were good but I did have 2 and 4 fuses that had to be replaced. Tested the turn signals and hazards. Nothing. No clicks or anything from the cans.

Hopped on the computer and looked at a 74 wiring diagram that @DionR sent me. Going through the diagram, the power goes through the hazards first apparently using D31 18P and D32 18P wires. Taking a look at my setup... There wasnt an a connector with 2 pink wires. Just brown and yellow or Red w/white tracer and black. So I had taken the cans out to test the wires to see if any of them were hot. Nope. Crawled under the dash and tucked away at the top near the wires for the amp gauge was a plug with 2 pink wires. Took the can from the brown/yellow wires and plugged it into the pigtail for the 2 pinks. Put the car to Run position and tested the hazards. THEY WORK NOW!! Turned off he hazards and tested the signals, thinking for sure they were gonna work. Welp, all of that excitement turned into some frustration realllllllly quick. No luck with the turn signals.

So I hopped back to testing the plugs to see if the Red/w and Black pigtail had power when using the signal lever or if the brown/yellow pigtail had power. Neither had power, telling me that somewhere, there is a plug not plugged in or that a wire is cut/not getting power. Hopping back over to the diagrams, I see that diagrams show that D1 18BLK should have the power to activate the switch. After tracing that in the diagrams, it should be (from my understanding of the diagrams at least) that it should go:

Fuse block 2 > C1 14 BLK > X12 14 R > B1 18W > Backup switch CE17 > B2 18BLK......
There is a split at B1 18W near the switch--- D1 18BLK > Flasher can > Turn signal switch

Annotation 2020-06-18 205858.png

Is that right? Is there a connection point at or near the backup switch at the trans? I crawled under the car and see that what I suspect is the backup switch, that nothing is connected there. If that is the case, is there a bypass that I can do in order to get the turn signals working?