Made the swap to electronic ignition and the car barely runs now

Markzilla88 said
Oh sorry, I should have said that. I was using the white paint mark on the original. I bought the car last fall after this guy used it at the track and occasional rides, so I don’t personally know EXACTLY how the motors built, all I can do is go off what he told me. So it’s a 360 bored .30 over, edelbrock 1405 carb with manual choke, edelbrock performer intake, it’s got the police interceptor heads that have “serious work done to them” (his words not mine), an unknown lunati cam that he said was a big cam, Keith black pistons, and I’m not sure more then that. I just installed Mopars electronic ignition kit to convert it over from points (odd thing was he was running points, but had the harness for electronic so I’m not sure why he didn’t run electronic)

OK on the white mark. Yes that would force you advance the timing 35 degrees to get it to line up at the same point as the new damper. Looks like the green mark on the old damper was correct. No wonder it was hard to crank when hot and idling messed up... you had 45 degrees initial timing in it! Probably it was detonating too when it was missing and backfiring.

Fair warning: You won't get the torque you had with the base timing so far advanced.

BTW, I would be running cylinder compressions on all cylinders. Mostly to get some clues as to what you have for a piston + cam combination. KB's can be higher compression, or just Silvolite low compression stock-replacement pistons sold as KB's. And get a head casting number; it ought to be 7 digits, under a valve cover, cast on one of the runners.