Install complete, new brake lines front to back. Bleeding done and happy to inform that there is no leaks and the car stops like a champ. Wilwood prop valve works perfect. Observation: I matched the tie rod measurements to the drum set up and as expected are way off. Toeing out. The bolts I acquired For the balljoint to spindles needed to be shaved 1/4 inch to clear the sway bar tabs on the pre 73 lowers. The tires stick out further than the pre 73 setup. Until my rear ended is done I’m going to use spacers to pull the rears out to match the stance in the front. I figure 1/4 inch. I used the 73 style bushings for the strut bar that are considerably larger on my set up and accounted for that in the tightening. They seem to work great. Pro tip. If you can’t get you torsion bars out or their stiff , undo the strut nut on the lower then undo the lower pin bolt to k-frame and use a rubber mallet on the lower to knock out the torsion bar. Alternatively get a tool. The PST bars are great! This was very rewarding and took 3 days to complete a full re and re fumbling along and watching lots of videos. Many trips to the part store. Also good starting point for the adjusters to keep the body off the bump stops is just the heads of the bolts peeking through the lowers.(PST 1.03) I’ll fire up some photo soon. Car needs a serious alignment now. Now it’s time to set the stance and get an alignment. Tires that are on the front were used to test the car and avoid damage to my good set. Have a set of cheap tires around to make the test runs and to get you to the alignment shop. Once there they can swap them out while doing the alignment.
I’ll post up how she handles and brakes over the next few days
Thanks for following along.
View attachment 1715545856
View attachment 1715545857
View attachment 1715545858
View attachment 1715545859
View attachment 1715545860
