HEI... here we go...
UPDATE:
So I got a bit more done last night. I need to do clean up but I wanted to test it to make sure I had an understanding of what I was doing... I'm sure there may be some placebo effect going on but it feels stronger and much smoother...
I removed the Mopar 5 wire ECU and sealed up the connection - I'm really not sure what to do with it... I wouldn't mind going through the harness and cleaning up un-needed wires but I also feel I should leave it as a fall-back to go back to original set up if needed... any constructive thoughts are appreciated.
I created 10 gauge jumpers for the ballast resistor - I got this idea from a B-Bodies only post here. I thought it was a good way, again, as a fall-back.
I removed my Accel Super Stock coil, bracket, and I assume the cylinder-ma-bobber is some sort of noise canceller (I'm interested in knowing more if incorrect)?
I sealed up the coil wires and the male/female torpedo connector - Again, I'm not sure what to do with them... would love to clean up - constructive thoughts welcomed!
So here is the install of the coil and control module.
I'm not 100% content with the location of the install but am currently limited by the length of the coil wire. I have read various opinions about coil wire length... shorted is better etc... but i'd love to move this whole thing back towards/to the firewall - Thoughts? All in all it's definitely not the sexiest package, but like everything else when working on our cars I'm proud to be going through the process of building it out myself.
Thanks FABO
UPDATE:
So I got a bit more done last night. I need to do clean up but I wanted to test it to make sure I had an understanding of what I was doing... I'm sure there may be some placebo effect going on but it feels stronger and much smoother...
I removed the Mopar 5 wire ECU and sealed up the connection - I'm really not sure what to do with it... I wouldn't mind going through the harness and cleaning up un-needed wires but I also feel I should leave it as a fall-back to go back to original set up if needed... any constructive thoughts are appreciated.
I created 10 gauge jumpers for the ballast resistor - I got this idea from a B-Bodies only post here. I thought it was a good way, again, as a fall-back.
I removed my Accel Super Stock coil, bracket, and I assume the cylinder-ma-bobber is some sort of noise canceller (I'm interested in knowing more if incorrect)?
I sealed up the coil wires and the male/female torpedo connector - Again, I'm not sure what to do with them... would love to clean up - constructive thoughts welcomed!
So here is the install of the coil and control module.
- I ran a ground from the control module to the alternator.
- I am currently picking power up from the 12v ignition switched BLUE WIRE coming off the alternator. This previously went to the electric thermostat choke pull-off on the original 1bbl Holley 1945 set up which has been replaced with a Holley 350 cfm set up with electric choke also powered by the blue lead.
- I currently don't have a relay set up for the coil as I was just testing - THIS IS WHERE I COULD USE SOME ADVICE as I'm getting a bit lost at that point in the recipe linked above.
- If I run a 10ga. lead from battery + to a relay controlled by the BLUE LEAD would that be CORRECT? Do I even need a relay if i'm using the blue lead? (The blue lead is also feeding an aftermarket volt gauge.)
- I still need a fuse. I imagine this would go on the 10ga from the battery +? (or between the blue lead/coil if no relay as above?)
I'm not 100% content with the location of the install but am currently limited by the length of the coil wire. I have read various opinions about coil wire length... shorted is better etc... but i'd love to move this whole thing back towards/to the firewall - Thoughts? All in all it's definitely not the sexiest package, but like everything else when working on our cars I'm proud to be going through the process of building it out myself.
Thanks FABO
