TorqueFlite Burnouts

If you are at the drag strip and are on slick. Drive threw the water box and stop so that the pavement is still wet in front of the rear tire. put it in first and rev high enough that when you put it in 2nt that it shifts. Now either feather the throttle back out or stay in it until it grabs. This is all decided on how big your slick is and how much power you have.

When i had my 340 in my car (Manual shift valve body) take of in 2nt, hit 6000 rpm, shift into high gear. it would quit spinning, then i would let of the gas and stage the car.

With my 408 i do the same process but now i have enough power to keep it spinning in High Gear past the Christmas Tree.
You use up a slick real fast that way.
So now after i hit high gear and i see smoke from my back tire i release my line lock and roll the throttle back to idle.

What brakes the sprags is shock loads. like revving it up in first gear and then just lifting the throttle or push in the clutch. There is no load, so when the tire grabs traction, there is all that slack to JACK HAMMER THAT SPRAG. Same thing happens when you bust a u-joint or drive shaft.

But you don't know it is broken until you leave the line.............and if your lucking it only destroys your car. bad luck it take of you leg at the ankle.
The Sprag fail cause the cast iron Drum to over speed, fractures, and then come out like bullet from a machine gun. Big iron sharp shrapnel Bullets!!!!!!!!

As far as a standard street tire and a dry burn out, you wont usually be spinning the tire to 100 mph and then instantly grabbing traction, like a slick will do........it can still happen but the odds are a lot more in you favor on the street.