upgrade master brake cylinder

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Andrezinho

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your opinion to improve your braking system. I already have disc brakes on the front of my Dodge, but my brake servo no longer works.
thanks
 
very nice site

thanks
I had no knowledge of this company
I send an email requesting info regarding master cylinder and brake booster
 
Just use the 15/16" bore cylinder and ditch the brake booster. With a 15/16" master the pedal feel is great and the effort required isn't that bad at all. It's a personal preference, but I like manual disk brakes on these cars over power disks with a booster.
 
Just use the 15/16" bore cylinder and ditch the brake booster. With a 15/16" master the pedal feel is great and the effort required isn't that bad at all. It's a personal preference, but I like manual disk brakes on these cars over power disks with a booster.
I really want to do that, but I wouldn't want it to get hard for a road car.
to make this change, how to fix the cylinder master and also the actuation?
 
I really want to do that, but I wouldn't want it to get hard for a road car.
to make this change, how to fix the cylinder master and also the actuation?

Like I said, it's a personal preference. I use a 15/16" cylinder on my car and it's my daily driver, and I much prefer the pedal effort it gives compared to the squishy, vague pedal you get with a stock booster. But that's just my opinion. I've switched all of my cars to manual disks and they're all street cars.

To change it all you'd need is the 15/16" cylinder and a new push rod, either one for a manual master cylinder or an adjustable one. DoctorDiff sells an adjustable brake pedal push rod for that purpose.
 
Like I said, it's a personal preference. I use a 15/16" cylinder on my car and it's my daily driver, and I much prefer the pedal effort it gives compared to the squishy, vague pedal you get with a stock booster. But that's just my opinion. I've switched all of my cars to manual disks and they're all street cars.

To change it all you'd need is the 15/16" cylinder and a new push rod, either one for a manual master cylinder or an adjustable one. DoctorDiff sells an adjustable brake pedal push rod for that purpose.
very interesting, you can pass me please the brand of the cylinder master and a number of parts?
 
very interesting, you can pass me please the brand of the cylinder master and a number of parts?

Anyone know a factory application for a 15/16" master cylinder?

None that I could find for Mopar.

Dr Diff is the only place I could find for an aluminum one.

Dr Diff is awesome and backs his products. Cass (Dr Diff) helped me with some issues on my rear disc install and they weren't even his problems or issues with his product.
 
This is the cast iron one I used in my manual disc brake kelsey Hayes rear drum.
CEFE8A93-5817-45BC-AAB0-21E41D7075BE.png
 
at Doctordiff they advised me the hemi style Bendix booster assy for A-body and 1 1/32 bore aluminum master cylinder option.
I am seriously thinking of removing my brake booster (defective) and mounting a 15/16 master cylinder.
 
Like I said, it's a personal preference. I use a 15/16" cylinder on my car and it's my daily driver, and I much prefer the pedal effort it gives compared to the squishy, vague pedal you get with a stock booster. But that's just my opinion. I've switched all of my cars to manual disks and they're all street cars.

To change it all you'd need is the 15/16" cylinder and a new push rod, either one for a manual master cylinder or an adjustable one. DoctorDiff sells an adjustable brake pedal push rod for that purpose.

Hey blu , can u lock urs up ? I cant ----------4 wheel discs , w/ 15/16 .
 
I really want to do that, but I wouldn't want it to get hard for a road car.
to make this change, how to fix the cylinder master and also the actuation?

I've driven a manual brake Mustang most of my life. It doesnt take more effort than you have, unless you put the wrong master cylinder in there. Stick with a 15/16 and you will love the feel.
 
Raybestos MC36338 is a 15/16" master cylinder for DRUM/DRUM applications. I have one, installed, and I had to change nothing about our setup. Just in case anyone is looking...
 
I think the 1-1/32" bore Dr Diff is the same PN used in 1980's Dodge pickups. But, for disk brakes w/o a booster, you definitely want the 15/16" bore and Dr Diff has those custom made. If you desire even smaller, I use the 1995-99 MC for a Breeze/Stratus/Cirrus w/ ABS (2 ports) w/ 7/8" bore. Search for my post w/ photos. The pedal wound up in the same place in my 1964 Valiant w/ manual brakes. For all, you need the 2-to-4 bolt adapter plate, which you can buy separately from Dr Diff or on ebay (~$30). You can wire the low-reservor warning switch to your dash lamp, in parallel with the e-brake switch. If either shorts to ground, the lamp lights.
 
I think the 1-1/32" bore Dr Diff is the same PN used in 1980's Dodge pickups. But, for disk brakes w/o a booster, you definitely want the 15/16" bore and Dr Diff has those custom made. If you desire even smaller, I use the 1995-99 MC for a Breeze/Stratus/Cirrus w/ ABS (2 ports) w/ 7/8" bore. Search for my post w/ photos. The pedal wound up in the same place in my 1964 Valiant w/ manual brakes. For all, you need the 2-to-4 bolt adapter plate, which you can buy separately from Dr Diff or on ebay (~$30). You can wire the low-reservor warning switch to your dash lamp, in parallel with the e-brake switch. If either shorts to ground, the lamp lights.

I run a dodge diplomat 15/16 , alum. master cyl. , works pretty good , but I cant lock up my 4 wheel disc set up ----------have thot about a 7/8 too.
 
15/16 new Raybestos - disc/drum
Straight bolt on, no fuss.
Same part # at most auto supplies.

RAYBESTOS MC36406 Master Cylinder | RockAuto

No fuss? The wire clip top and cheap bushing leaking brake fluid all over the place and the cast iron flash rusting a month after it's installed is no fuss? Not in my book. And $60 from RockAuto + $15 or more shipping doesn't save much over a new master cylinder and the adaptor from DoctorDiff. Also way easier to hook a pressure bleeder to the new style master cylinders, makes bleeding them a 5 minute one person operation.
 
Some prefer the original style .

Vacuum bleeder makes most systems 5 mins. lol

Have you even used a pressure bleeder? Makes vacuum bleeders seem stupid. I used vacuum bleeders for years and there’s no way I’d buy another one of those either.

If folks want to use the old cast iron master cylinders that’s fine, but let’s not pretend they’re easier or better.
 
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