Street/Mostly Strip Front Suspension

Save your money onto Calvert shocks. You need something that is double adjustable. For the cost difference, it’s just not worth it for a single adjustable shock.

Same goes for the front shocks. I’ve seen enough cars unhook because the front end is so violent it it upsets the entire chassis.

And yes, most of them were 11 second cars.

You’re off to a good start. I think everything your doing/planning is spot on except for shocks.

FWIW I told my cousin the exact same thing, and he didn’t listen. The first time he went to adjust his Calvert’s I wasn’t there. He called me and asked what to do. I said IDK, what does turning the knob do to bump? The video says you need a stiffer bump setting, but no matter which way you turn the knob, you’re changing both bump and rebound. Call Calvert.

He played with it for a bit. Now he’s going order some DA Vikings for it.

He is the perfect example of not having the money to do it right once, but he has plenty of money to do it 2, 3 or 4 times (or not wanting to spend the money because he doesn’t see the difference between price and value).

Just one example of many I could cite. Spend once, cry once.
I totally agree on doing things once. But stock shocks are 26 a pair, and Vikings look to be between 350 and 400 a pair! THAT is a shocker!!:rolleyes: I wouldn't buy expensive single shocks for sure. I'll spend the DA money when I see how badly I need them, as Kendog 170 mentioned.
The best place to start is send the poly bushing back. Get the factory rubber and install them correctly. Never tighten the LCA or UCA while in the air . Have the LCA and UCA's mid way in their travel so they don't rip out of the casing. or have the car sitting on the ground at factory ride height. Worked best for me. I also put bump stop extensions on the uppers to eliminate travel. The car had quicker forward reaction.
Hi Steve, I hope that hood you came down for helped you out somehow.
Anyway, are stock bushings a personal preference, or do you feel they're quicker? Maybe the poly just isn't necessary? Years ago, I was a partner on a Stock Eliminator car. We used rubber, and left them loose with double nuts to make sure they were loose. I'm not sure I want a street car THAT loose. (The bolts were pivoting in the holes.)
Yeah, I tighten them at ride height.
As to limiting the travel, we did something similar. We used a small block bar on the passenger side, and a big block bar on the driver's side. That was after running the car a while, and experimenting. I'll try stuff like that on my car as I go.

Any more thoughts on ball joints? Proforged has an upper that's .5" longer than stock. Would that work w/o affecting geometry? Thinking about increasing travel, if necessary.

Thanks, everyone.