What to do...

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For 11.50’s and 118mph it does seem like the 60’ is lacking.
When I had the 383 in my heap running similar times it would 60’ about a tenth better than that 1.65.

I don’t recall your cam exactly.....high 250’s?....... I think at that elevation with a cam that size, foot braking....... 5000-5200 or so stall, min.
Imo, it needs an 8” unit.

The speed is pretty good...... just gotta work on the front half.

Have you done a timing loop and determined 32* is really the sweet spot?
Cam is Howards Solid Roller - 257/267@050 .640/.645 .022 lash hot
Below 32 and I lose a mph.. above 32 and it gains nothing. 32-34 is no difference except the starter doesn't like it, that extra 2degrees is guess is it's limit.
With the 10degree bushing and the lightest springs, it mph'd 117.6. Only change was the front shocks and locked the timing at 32, 118.6 on pretty much all passes not including the aircleaner pass. low and mid do seem to run MUCH smoother with the distributor locked out.
 
I’m not suggesting a change....... just saying......
And especially at that elevation...... the motor really doesn’t need a cam with 10* split.
If it’s hooking really well, to the point where you could put extra tq at the hit to good use...... a single pattern would likely 60’ better.

Have you done the rolling high gear flash stall test?
If so..... what does it flash too?

Have you done a cranking pressure test?
 
I’m not suggesting a change....... just saying......
And especially at that elevation...... the motor really doesn’t need a cam with 10* split.
If it’s hooking really well, to the point where you could put extra tq at the hit to good use...... a single pattern would likely 60’ better.

Have you done the rolling high gear flash stall test?
If so..... what does it flash too?

Have you done a cranking pressure test?
High gear rolling flash is around 4800ish
Since I added the thicker head gaskets havent done the compression test. But before with 12.2:1 same everything else 170-180s with a hot 7k + day.

I just picked out the cam trying to sort out the combo. I was thinking about a single pattern since these trickflows flow a good bit more exhaust wise then the cncd speedmasters that I used to have on it.
 
Cam is Howards Solid Roller - 257/267@050 .640/.645 .022 lash hot
Below 32 and I lose a mph.. above 32 and it gains nothing. 32-34 is no difference except the starter doesn't like it, that extra 2degrees is guess is it's limit.
With the 10degree bushing and the lightest springs, it mph'd 117.6. Only change was the front shocks and locked the timing at 32, 118.6 on pretty much all passes not including the aircleaner pass. low and mid do seem to run MUCH smoother with the distributor locked out.


With it locked out there is a great probability the ignition retards with RPM. At that DA, I doubt retard is a good thing.

And they ALL retard. How much and at what RPM has to be tested. But they all do it.
 
With it locked out there is a great probability the ignition retards with RPM. At that DA, I doubt retard is a good thing.

And they ALL retard. How much and at what RPM has to be tested. But they all do it.
I did rev it up to about 4000 or so and it stayed rock steady with the timing light.. but thats not to say that it doesn't do it higher up, or act differently while the car is loaded. But I did notice with the advance installed it was kinda steady (little bouncy).
 
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Well... Changed the settings on the rear shocks toato #5 added 1 flat preload on both sides for the caltracs. 16psi on the hoosiers
6,942ft DA
11.358@118.4 (1.590 60ft)
6500ft DA
11.375@118.96 (felt like it spun ever so slightly 1.595 60ft)
 
I did rev it up to about 4000 or so and it stayed rock steady with the timing light.. but thats not to say that it doesn't do it higher up, or act differently while the car is loaded. But I did notice with the advance installed it was kinda steady (little bouncy).


Remind me what RPM you’re shifting and what shocks you have.

Thanks
 
To put your stall speed into perspective......

When I had my car running 10’s with a 9.7:1 906 headed 440 running a UD roller that was 259/264-108....... 4.56 gears and 29.5” bias slicks....... the converter would flash to 5300.
Shift about 6400, through the lights about 67-6800.

If it really hooked, which def wasn’t guaranteed with my old SS springs, it would 60’ 1.46-1.50...... but there were also a lot of 1.51-1.56 60’s in there as well.

If I had that combo at 5000’, I can see where it would have needed more stall.

My stock 906 headed 383 used a converter with 5400 stall.

The converter in my friends stocker GTO was 5500(1.50 60’ at 3650lbs, 406ci with heads that flow 212).

But...... you’re chipping away at it:thumbsup:
 
Can anybody calculate what those 11.30’s are at 1500 feet?
I think with the correct cam and convertor your car would run real close to 11 flat at your 7000ft altitude.
I am thinking, impressive, very impressive if you come off the mountain... lol
 
Shift right at 7000

Fronts CE 3 way set at 90/10
Rears rancho 9000s single adjustable

Now I forgot if you’re running slicks or radials. I have very limited experience with radials, but I know from the little tuning I’ve done with them they like a lot more bump than a slick does.
 
Can anybody calculate what those 11.30’s are at 1500 feet?
I think with the correct cam and convertor your car would run real close to 11 flat at your 7000ft altitude.
I am thinking, impressive, very impressive if you come off the mountain... lol

Information about Top Gun Raceway
address:15550 Schurz Hwy, Fallon, NV 89406

  • blue-dot.png
  • -track elevation: 3953.4 ft
  • -track lat, long: 39.3966, -118.781

The NHRA altitude adjustment factor for that track, to correct back to sea level is:
ET - .9612
MPH - 1.0369

So, an 11.375@118.96 would correct to 10.933@123.34(at sea level)
 
Can anybody calculate what those 11.30’s are at 1500 feet?
I think with the correct cam and convertor your car would run real close to 11 flat at your 7000ft altitude.
I am thinking, impressive, very impressive if you come off the mountain... lol
Most of the bracket guys are saying I'll drop around 6-8 tenths going to sacramento raceway. Which is basically sea level. Maybe this fall I'll make the trek and run it. But I do need a rollbar and harnesses. I was warned last night.. that is counting actual DA. But I dunno I'll believe it when I see it.
 
The NHRA altitude adjustment factor for that track, to correct back to sea level is:
ET - .9612
MPH - 1.0369

So, an 11.375@118.96 would correct to 10.933@123.34(at sea level)

Wow....
I wonder how real world that is. I have seen with various cars and combos 2000 feet make 2 tenths difference on well sorted cars.
So 4,000 feet make 4 tenths difference of that follows..
7000 feet difference...???
 
Most of the bracket guys are saying I'll drop around 6-8 tenths going to sacramento raceway. Which is basically sea level. Maybe this fall I'll make the trek and run it. But I do need a rollbar and harnesses. I was warned last night.. that is counting actual DA. But I dunno I'll believe it when I see it.

tend to agree, think you have a 10.50ish combo in “ good air” that could be a 10.20’s combo with the right cam and vert
 
Wow....
I wonder how real world that is. I have seen with various cars and combos 2000 feet make 2 tenths difference on well sorted cars.
So 4,000 feet make 4 tenths difference of that follows..
7000 feet difference...???
With the da... 7tenths. Makes sense from the what the guys at the track have been saying.
 
Now I forgot if you’re running slicks or radials. I have very limited experience with radials, but I know from the little tuning I’ve done with them they like a lot more bump than a slick does.
Hoosiers are biasply "slicks" they have a dot stamp... But.. not really dot tire.
 
Hoosiers are biasply "slicks" they have a dot stamp... But.. not really dot tire.

I assume they are QTP’s?
Ran those forever, like them.
My current car i swapped them off for some Hoosier 275 drag radials, gained almost a tenth.
I could never get away with more than 14 pounds in my QtP’s at the track
 
Wow....
I wonder how real world that is. I have seen with various cars and combos 2000 feet make 2 tenths difference on well sorted cars.
So 4,000 feet make 4 tenths difference of that follows..
7000 feet difference...???

What 7000ft difference?
The track is at 3953ft.

The equivalent day at seal level, to a 7000ft DA day at a track where the elevation is 3953ft, would be show a DA of 3047ft.

If you’re at a sea level track, and the DA is 0ft...... the equivalent DA at his track is 3953ft.
 
I assume they are QTP’s?
Ran those forever, like them.
My current car i swapped them off for some Hoosier 275 drag radials, gained almost a tenth.
I could never get away with more than 14 pounds in my QtP’s at the track
Yea they're qtp. So far it was happy with the 16psi.. didn't change the pressure at all last night.
 
What 7000ft difference?
The track is at 3953ft.

The equivalent day at seal level, to a 7000ft DA day at a track where the elevation is 3953ft, would be show a DA of 3047ft.

got ya. Was looking at it from a DA diff of 7k feet
 
What 7000ft difference?
The track is at 3953ft.

The equivalent day at seal level, to a 7000ft DA day at a track where the elevation is 3953ft, would be show a DA of 3047ft.

If you’re at a sea level track, and the DA is 0ft...... the equivalent DA at his track is 3953ft.
For reference.. last night during the 11.35 run it was 6942ft da... But in Sacramento at the same time the da was 2516ft...only way to see how she does it to take it down the hill and let 'er eat. Lol
 
24999.jpeg
Forgot to post the videos in case anyone was interested.




Poor Honda
 
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Well, how two NHRA index classes are factored at that track are:

S/ST is adjusted from the normal 10.90 down to 11.30

S/G goes from 9.90 to 10.30
 
Just to show how even at tracks that are located near sea level, the air isn’t always great.

My friend was racing at a track this past weekend that’s at about 80ft elevation.
The DA on his weather station was about 3800ft.
 
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