Improving acceleration using 2bbl Carburetor?

slantsixdan said
Look at post № 11 in this thread (on the first page). Wherever you see boldface, blue type, that's a clickable link. Click it to go to the information it represents. As you are new to all this, as soon as you can, get the three books listed in this thread.

Wise. See this thread about that.

Note there is nothing such as a 270 Slant-6. "270" is the model series of your Dart. The 170 was the basic/low-trim series. The 270 was the high-trim series. The GT was the premium series. It's a little confusing because the standard-equipment engine was a 170 cubic inch Slant-6, but any Dart model could be had with any of the available engines. Your engine is either a 170 or a 225 Slant-6. Look at the driver's side of the engine block, below/behind the manifolds. What casting numbers do you see?

Mattax said
If you put enough miles on and fail to check and replace the points, in general a transitorized ignition will be more reliable. More power? IF the combustion conditions are such that a slightly higher voltage will initiate spark and more current will build a better flame kernal so there's a good burn instead of a misfire or incomplete burn, THEN yes. Slightly anyway. IF it means running a timing curve that doesn't build pressure through the most efficient crank angles, then NO.
See the first link I posted above.

I’ve been having an issue for the past month or two where it takes a few tries to start it. If I’ve just driven it, stopped to run an errand, and then get back in, it starts up in a second or two. But when I’m starting it for the first time that day it takes two or three tries to get it cranked. If i drove jt around and then don’t drive it for a few hours (still warm but not hot) it takes several tries.

I think this is an issue with the timing of the ignition. The distributor and starter were initially replaced back in November/December and had the timing set. Started and ran fine consistently then. The distributor gunked up and was replaced back in February, and the timing was set. It started and ran fine consistently. But now it doesn’t.

Is it a heat/humidity thing? I’ve read up on and watched videos on how points and condensers ignition works, how adjustments are made, but don’t totally understand it. A teacher of mine owns a ‘72 charger and put a converter in place of the points/condensers that is, as I understand it, a magnet and pickup that doesn’t require adjustment. Would an HEI conversion help with cranking? Note: at one point I had trouble cranking due to a bad alternator wire and it was draining the battery trying to crank that. That does not seem to be the issue here.