lifter galley crossover tube

gregcon said
It's an interesting take on oil delivery. For me, it's one of those ideas you dream up but talk yourself out of actually doing. Two reasons, maybe three. It's a ****-mess of plumbing. The lack of filtration is also not gonna fly. Finally, I'd have to mull over all the drilling of main caps before I could live with it....that's removing metal in a pretty critical area.

The factory method of feeding the mains from the lifter galley is not perfect, but it does have some strengths. It's very compact and lightweight. It's also all but guaranteed to never leak or require maintenance. It seems that if you pressurize the right side galley with a steady supply of oil, it oughta be plenty good. I'm gonna look into feeding the galley from both ends a bit further; that seems also like a promising idea.If the oil is fed at both ends of the galley, there is no longer any reason the oil should want to fly past #4, refusing to turn.

The guys from the 1970's had a lot of smarts...they also had to contend with a lot of things we don't. Two big ones are heavy pistons and rods, and oil that was pretty close to kerosene. A modern-built engine with light rods and pistons, and modern oil....? It shouldn't require heavy rework...I guess I'll find out!

Thats why I moved it out of the pan. I filtered all the oil all the time to lean that up.

A failed main cap is the least of our worries if you are trying to make power at 8500.

You are dealing with an oiling system designed for mass surface transportation with a low RPM range, and simple production.

It certainly wasn’t designed by the same text books Chevrolet used, which is why they oil and the chrysler doesn’t.

It’s simple really. You can have a few hoses or you can knock the rods out of it.

Never broke a cap BTW, but I tore up a ton of other **** because I didn’t listen to the guy who paid to get it fixed.

I have enough junk out there to do another engine that is capable of 8500. Since I no longer race I have no desire to do it. But I could if I wanted to. And it would have the oil timing corrected.

Edit: forgot to mention you won’t find a quality race block with the oil timing off. I’ve never found one, unless it’s a Chrysler. It looks like Ritter took a shot at fixing it, and from the pictures it should work.

There isn’t an aftermarket Chevrolet block that doesn’t have priority main oiling (which only matters if you lose a lifter but certainly that’s the best way, not the cheapest way to do it but the best) and the oil getting to the rods about 70 degrees ATDC. I look at what works (chevrolet oil timing) what doesn’t (Chrysler oil timing) and compare the difference. The only difference is oil timing.