1bbl Aluminum intake

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TF360

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Picked up a Aluminum 1bbl intake. Its newer than my 74, and I noticed that the vacuum port for the power brakes has a little valve in it. Can it be taken out? Wondering if I hook a hose to it if it will breath. Looks like a tire valve inside. There is a electrical connector on there too. Thanks for any help.
 
I don't know much about /6, but just wondering if it may be a Feather Duster/Dart Lite /6 intake. If you know the application (casting number), maybe someone more familiar with it can offer more info.
 
I just looked at one, a two piece, aluminum 1bbl with an EGR provision. It has two threaded ports on the number six runner instead of the typical single port of non-smog/earlier manifolds. These ports are standard female NPT threads. Likely whats in yours can be removed based on what I see here on this one.
 
I was hoping I could get away without removing it. Don't want to crack the aluminum. What's the best way to get it out without cracking it?
 
If it's in one of those two rear ports on the number 6 runner it should unscrew. Those two ports i'm referring to have a raised ring/body that reinforces the threads and should prevent them from breaking. If you do try to unscrew what's in there make sure you grab it and not any part of the aluminum. Drilling it out is another option. While not what I consider a preferred method, you could J-B weld the opening closed also. A pic would help.
 
Ok here is what the port looks like. Will the center unscrew. I really don't want to remove the whole thing-don't want to crack the intake.

intake.jpg
 
You'd be well off to leak check that before you spend too much time on it.
 
Just unscrew the whole thing. You almost certainly won't crack anything, but if the manifold is in such fragile condition that unscrewing this temp sensor destroys the intake, you've just dodged a bullet (doing the full install to have to do it again).

Jos51700 is right about leak-checking—these 2-piece intakes have their advantages (light weight, better fuel distribution). Some of them were porous at the weld bead, though most of those went for scrap long ago, but it's still worth some prep to ensure you don't have this problem. See here and here. The lightweight construction also means they can tend to crack in the floor area above the exhaust hot spot, so check carefully there.
 
Unscrew the entire thing. Put a wrench (or Vise-Grips, or socket) on the big hex and crank it counterclockwise until it's out of the manifold.
 
It appears like some type of electrical sensor, perhaps for inlet temperature. My guess is it was part of the electric choke controls. In the late 1970's, there was a thermo-resistor on top of the intake. Perhaps they moved that down into the air flow by ~1980. I vaguely recall reading that those superlight aluminum intakes were used on trucks. I have one (not installed) and it very light and fragile w/ perhaps the ugliest welds (e-beam) seen on a production part.
 
It appears to be some sort of a thing, that does some sort of the stuff.

Unless you put the whole car on a diet and start taking Anorexia with every meal yourself, you have zero incentive to use that thing. You'd need an accelerometer to measure any difference in the gain from installing it, and that's only because your wallet will be lighter too, after you buy gaskets.
 
So, I changed from the factory cast iron intake and exhaust manifolds to the aluminum intake and Clifford Headers and shaved off 30lbs. That's a lot. I'm also taking weight off in other areas.
 
I find it's much more convenient to move the aluminum intake around wether it's attached to an exhaust manifold or not! It's much lighter...
 
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