Is the kickdown linkage set up right?
Been driven 30-40K, so it's not as fresh and clean as George Jets' setup above, but here's the 360 in my 67 Barracuda.
As said in the link above, get the Holley carb lever adapter for Mopar; they are cheap and work great. Will make everything else easier. After that, OEM four barrel throttle bracket cable and kickdown rod will work as is. Or, the two barrel setup can be modified. Basically, the two barrel cable hold down has to be moved forward and inch or so, and the kickdown rod lengthened the same amount. How do you know exactly where the cable hold down goes? Just hook the cable to the carb, then pull until the carb just begins to open, then back off until you have just a bit of slack. Where the metal sheath for the cable is, that's where the hold-down clamp goes. Do whatever you have to do to get it there. (I just cut the bracket, move it forward, then weld it together.) For the kickdown, open the carb all the way by hand, then at the same time push the kickdown back as far as it will go. The distance between the carb stud and the back of the kickdown slot is how much the rod needs to be lengthened.
With the accelerator pushed to the floor (and not before), carb should open all the way, and the kickdown should go as far back as it will go. With the foot off the accelerator, cable should not be pulling on the carb, and the kickdown should come all the way forward. Simple, really. Easier I think than trying to set up those stupid aftermarket throttle/kickdown cable setups.
Been driven 30-40K, so it's not as fresh and clean as George Jets' setup above, but here's the 360 in my 67 Barracuda.
As said in the link above, get the Holley carb lever adapter for Mopar; they are cheap and work great. Will make everything else easier. After that, OEM four barrel throttle bracket cable and kickdown rod will work as is. Or, the two barrel setup can be modified. Basically, the two barrel cable hold down has to be moved forward and inch or so, and the kickdown rod lengthened the same amount. How do you know exactly where the cable hold down goes? Just hook the cable to the carb, then pull until the carb just begins to open, then back off until you have just a bit of slack. Where the metal sheath for the cable is, that's where the hold-down clamp goes. Do whatever you have to do to get it there. (I just cut the bracket, move it forward, then weld it together.) For the kickdown, open the carb all the way by hand, then at the same time push the kickdown back as far as it will go. The distance between the carb stud and the back of the kickdown slot is how much the rod needs to be lengthened.
With the accelerator pushed to the floor (and not before), carb should open all the way, and the kickdown should go as far back as it will go. With the foot off the accelerator, cable should not be pulling on the carb, and the kickdown should come all the way forward. Simple, really. Easier I think than trying to set up those stupid aftermarket throttle/kickdown cable setups.