How did you do it?

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mechanicmark

mechanicmark

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I am replacing the trunk floor wheel well bottom with a Sherman patch panel. Just a round pan that goes about 2" up sides of OEM well, not replacing whole trunk floor pan. It looks like it could get pushed down from inside or pressed up from bottom and welded. Thanks, Mark.
 
I would need to see some pictures of what you have but you can overlap them like you describe and plug weld them and seam seal it. I've used sheet metal screws to get the panel where I want it then weld and pull the screws and weld those closed. There is pneumatic tool that will punch holes for plugs and offset flange. I've used that too to get the metal down in locations where you need to touch a frame rail crossmember and overlapping leaves it too high.
 
I would push new panel down in if possible less chance of water splashing leak. Stole pic from a post last week.
new-well-2b-jpg.jpg
 
I am in the process of doing this today on a 69 Dart. What year and model are you working on? For mine, the patch piece has to be clocked to match the original. My gas tank is secured with bands that hook to tabs on the bottom of tire well so depth is important too. Also with the correct depth issue, my gas tank overlaps (or rather underlaps) the tire well.

I first measured the depth of the existing pan, and I marked the orientation of the tabs to the frame rails. I am cutting out the old pan today and matching that cut to the patch. I haven't decided if I'm going to butt weld it or overlap it. Either way, for me, it needs to be the same specs as factory.
 
Put it on the inside and do not but weld it. Remember the floor holds the weight of the fuel tank . One other thing always have a spare in the car. The carriage bolt that holds the spare in holds the fuel tank strap brace up. I have see them rip through the floor with a full tank just relying on the sheet metal. The spare tire helps hold the tank up. The replacement well wedged in from the top is a added support for the well. Just some info you might want to consider.
 
Leave an extra inch so when you drop it in you have overlap. As said drill holes along overlap on one panel and plug weld it.

Inkednew-well-2b-jpg_LI.jpg
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Put it on the inside and do not but weld it. Remember the floor holds the weight of the fuel tank . One other thing always have a spare in the car. The carriage bolt that holds the spare in holds the fuel tank strap brace up. I have see them rip through the floor with a full tank just relying on the sheet metal. The spare tire helps hold the tank up. The replacement well wedged in from the top is a added support for the well. Just some info you might want to consider.
Click to expand...

Dont follow what your saying.........Strap on tank follows groove on outside of tank, and hooked on one side in frame rail and hook/thread w/nut adjustment on other frame rail?
 
mycuda said:
Dont follow what your saying.........Strap on tank follows groove on outside of tank, and hooked on one side in frame rail and hook/thread w/nut adjustment on other frame rail?
Click to expand...
Not on a '69 Dart. There are 2 straps that run longitudinally. Rear part of the straps hooks to the bottom of the tire well.
 
dano said:
I would need to see some pictures of what you have but you can overlap them like you describe and plug weld them and seam seal it. I've used sheet metal screws to get the panel where I want it then weld and pull the screws and weld those closed. There is pneumatic tool that will punch holes for plugs and offset flange. I've used that too to get the metal down in locations where you need to touch a frame rail crossmember and overlapping leaves it too high.
Click to expand...
No pics-flip phone here, LOL. 72 Demon.
 
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