8.75 durability for big block street/ Strip

-
8 3/4 742 or 489 is good ! But to put real power to it in a pretty heavy car ! Have a friend with a dart with 451ci big block ! He could get a year on his 742 case no problem running 6:70 1/8 mile ! He started spraying it and it ran 5:70 1/8 mile. He started cracking the main caps on the carrier !! So if you going to being do that Dana 60 or a 9 inch !!
 
8 3/4 742 or 489 is good ! But to put real power to it in a pretty heavy car ! Have a friend with a dart with 451ci big block ! He could get a year on his 742 case no problem running 6:70 1/8 mile ! He started spraying it and it ran 5:70 1/8 mile. He started cracking the main caps on the carrier !! So if you going to being do that Dana 60 or a 9 inch !!
Thank you !
 
Is that why your not supposed to do a burn out in 1st gear long?

If you break anything in the drive train while the 727 is in low gear....like breaking the rear launching the car....the overrunning clutch needs to be inspected....or the next time you let go of the transbrake button the transmission couour d be sitting on your lap.....
 
sometimes I wonder how long my eight and a quarter would have lasted or if it still would be in the car?... I had taken many many passes with my eight and a quarter and figured I was going to blow it and while I can still get some money for it I sold it and built the 8 3/4 with the 489 case.. and the rest is history...


With a good clutch or the CT you’d be surprised what that 8.25 will take. The 8.75 too.

If you have nothing the D60 is the way to go.
 
If you break anything in the drive train while the 727 is in low gear....like breaking the rear launching the car....the overrunning clutch needs to be inspected....or the next time you let go of the transbrake button the transmission couour d be sitting on your lap.....
Okay makes sense
 
I agree. BTW, where are you finding the D60’s for 150 bucks??? I’d snatch one of those right up and make my own fixture to narrow it.
There was one in Yakima a couple weeks ago, 2 in cle elem for $250. P.s. close to being your neighbor
 
I'll stay with ma mopar or a s60. Unless it's way cheaper to do a 9 ( yeah it's hard to say that)

It probably is cheaper to do the 9". Nothin to be 'shamed of. lol I bet the number of 9s under different makes is uncountable at this point. I have one to fit under my 64 Valiant.
 
Just do a Dana and be done with it. To all the ppl who say it's cheeper to do a 9" I day they are wrong. For 15 years I built diffs for a living. A stock 9" center is plagued with the same problems as a 8 3/4, breaking main caps, cracking through the side of the 3rd pinion bearing and pushing the race landing through the pinion support. Let's also not forget the reason for the 3rd bearing, pinon bearing spacing is so close that it needs the 3rd one to keep it from pushing way from the ring gear.

So by the time you buy a nogular or aluminum case, billet or Daytona pinion support then fill it with the parts inside, r&p, posi/spool, is it really cheaper? I have the choice to put whatever I wanted under my car for cost and I have a cut down dana.
 
There was one in Yakima a couple weeks ago, 2 in cle elem for $250. P.s. close to being your neighbor
Do you know if everything other than the ends are the same for a 1996 ram 1500 to a 1996 ram 2500?
 
That is right on the fringe, so better to go Dana to be safe. That said, my car has had and 8 3/4 under it for over 27 years. A few years back I had to get a new housing (the fabricated MO875 from Moser) because my Caltracs crushed the axle tubes, but besides that, I have used the same pumpkin and gears for ~ 18 years. It is a 742 case with Moser 35 spline axles and a spool with 4.10 gears. My car is 3250 lbs and ran high to mid 10's for most of that time (foot brake). Now the car runs low 10's, but since I still foot brake it lives on....If I were to ever switch to a T-brake I would Definitely go to a Dana FIRST.
 
Have had Dana’s they are tough.
But Dana frankly has nothing to do with Mopar, other than they were a supplier like many others are/ were.
Guess what i am saying is the “ purity” of Dana to Mopar is more imagined than real.
Most guys i talk to who are really sharp use aftermarket 9 inch stuff in high horsepower applications.
Way more parts availibility and strength.
Dana was the 2018 GM supplier of the year.
 
Many a Mopar came with a Dana factory installed. But I guess the track pack cars had a turbo 400 tranny and a 9 inch rear. Kim
 
My car broke it's 8 3/4 the second time the then new 408 hooked up at the drag strip, 3240#, 1.38 60' on radials. I replaced it with a Strange S-60.

Having said that if I were doing it again most likely I'd use a 9" for several reasons. You can pick up good used third members pretty reasonable, there are tons of (aftermarket) parts available and gear swaps are a breeze. Fast cars that have 9" rears have ZERO Ford parts in them. Yes the factory nodular iron cases are strong but they are also hard to find.

If you've decided to go with the Dana, call Strange and price a housing with ends installed and a set of 35 spline axles, it may surprise you. The Strange housing will be easier to set the gears up in because it uses spanner nuts on the sides to adjust the back lash. Also it'll be lighter and as strong or stronger than a pick up housing and you don't have to deal the different sizes of axle tubes used in truck housings.

I've had zero issues with my Strange S-60 in almost ten years, install it and forget it.

This and $1.75 will buy you a cup of coffee in some places.

BTW someone mention you may as well install a LS if you go with a 9". Look under the factory Drag Pack Challengers and tell which rear's they have. While you're at it take a look at the transmissions too. It's not 1970 anymore.
 
Many a Mopar came with a Dana factory installed. But I guess the track pack cars had a turbo 400 tranny and a 9 inch rear. Kim

many a Chevy comes with Dana/Spicer components.
My point is Dana isnt affiliated with Mopar in any way, any more than with others. I had a Dana built for a car, not a 9 inch. But if i had a high end racecar, i wouldnt be using a Dana, nor would 99% of others.
Do you think Hemi Super stockers have Dana’s in them? SS/ AH cars?.. No. they have 9 inch in them
I get some Mopars came with Dana’s. I like them too.
 
Do you know if everything other than the ends are the same for a 1996 ram 1500 to a 1996 ram 2500?
I don't know for sure, I'd assume it's really close. However the 1500 has a 9.25 corporate rear end 2500 has Dana 60
 
I agree. BTW, where are you finding the D60’s for 150 bucks??? I’d snatch one of those right up and make my own fixture to narrow it.
Or any Pick-n-Pull for $135.. bring a battery powered sawzall and a metal cutting blade and buzz the U-bolts...
Screenshot_20200803-080556.png
 
many a Chevy comes with Dana/Spicer components.
My point is Dana isnt affiliated with Mopar in any way, any more than with others. I had a Dana built for a car, not a 9 inch. But if i had a high end racecar, i wouldnt be using a Dana, nor would 99% of others.
Do you think Hemi Super stockers have Dana’s in them? SS/ AH cars?.. No. they have 9 inch in them
I get some Mopars came with Dana’s. I like them too.
Yeah that's 1 of the reasons I'd get a Dana 60, there's so many of them out there. I would consider a 9, there's a **** load of parts, massive gear selection & Hell even China remakes stuff for em. Lol
 
Oh **** jpar your a computer wizard
Nope just put Pick-n-Pull in on my smartphone and then brought up their price list for rear ends and then took a screenshot cropped it and then came back here and copied it. and for those Craigslist ads I just went to Parts on Craigslist and put in Dana 60 and look through them a little bit and found some in yellow roses area and copy that and pasted it here as well. Not really a whiz I would say just a little common sense which nowadays is kind of a superpower I guess... LOL...
 
Just do a Dana and be done with it. To all the ppl who say it's cheeper to do a 9" I day they are wrong. For 15 years I built diffs for a living. A stock 9" center is plagued with the same problems as a 8 3/4, breaking main caps, cracking through the side of the 3rd pinion bearing and pushing the race landing through the pinion support. Let's also not forget the reason for the 3rd bearing, pinon bearing spacing is so close that it needs the 3rd one to keep it from pushing way from the ring gear.

So by the time you buy a nogular or aluminum case, billet or Daytona pinion support then fill it with the parts inside, r&p, posi/spool, is it really cheaper? I have the choice to put whatever I wanted under my car for cost and I have a cut down dana.
Thanks, yes Dana60 it is
 
-
Back
Top