Help with wiper motor & switch

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nxtdrnaybr

Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2020
Messages
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Location
Natick, MA
Hi,

Going through my new 68 Barracuda and my wipers don't work. Sometimes the go up and stop, if I bang the motor they might go a bit more. But, thinking I need a new motor. I can't pass inspection without working wipers.....

My question is, do I even have the right setup in place? Below are pics on my motor and switch. I can't tell if that is a 3 speed motor, but the switch is definitely a 2 speed and it looks fairly new along with the wiring.

Could that be causing my issue? Or and I doomed to dole out a ton of cash for a new motor?

Or do I have other options without having to rewire everything?

wiper motor 1.jpg


wiper motor 2.jpg


wiper switch.jpg
 
You have a mismatch on your motor/switch combo. The motor is for variable speed wipers. If it were me, I'd get the correct switch. If you just need to get the wipers to work on high for your inspection, you should be able to find a hot lead coming from the switch and connect it to the correct motor connection. Make sure the wiper motor is grounded properly where that copper strap and ground wire is in your photo. Clean the surfaces to make sure.
 
Hey... working through the previous owners wonderful mismatched setup. I finally got everything working, then snapped the clip on the bushing. I haven't pulled it all apart yet, but my guess is that I have a 2 speed crank arm that doesn't work with my 3 speed motor.

Where can I find the wiper motor part number stamped? To clarify, the cylinder motor is a Prestolite ETG 4002 156, but I need to know what that is hooked up to for the crank arm

I want to make sure I am looking for the right crank arm
 
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Parts manual helps, not just you but man I dont understand how anyone can be confident getting parts for these 50-60 year old cars and not think they need a manual.
Mymopar.com flip thru there for FREE manuals.
 
Parts manual helps, not just you but man I dont understand how anyone can be confident getting parts for these 50-60 year old cars and not think they need a manual.
Mymopar.com flip thru there for FREE manuals.

yes, totally agree. My problem is that nothing I've pulled out of this wiper setup so far is original and it's all mismatched. So, I am trying to figure out where to find the part number on the motor so I can even look up an appropriate part. It's not on the front or back, would it be under the cover?

thanks
 
IIRC you can't pass inspection without working windshield washer there either. You may be looking to get a donor car and/or have to start a wanted thread or two on here.
 
I have a couple wiper motors, some with part # stamped, some not. Yours has a black band on the bottom of motor? That's where I have seen majority stamped. But like I said, some no stamp.
 
Alright, found my problem. The crank arm was not positioned correctly on the motor, basically the the slot was not lined up and it was slowly spinning on the motor. Now I've got that addressed and ordered some new clips.

My new question is, what is the best/easiest way to attach the arm back to the crank and get the clip on. ideally without ripping the entire dash apart. I have the glove box out so I have some access, but my arms needs to be about a foot longer. Was thinking i'd start with some super long needle nose pliers and see how it goes, just not just i'll have the dexterity to get it on.

any tips are appreciated.
 
With the instrument panel removed you can access the motor, linkage, and pivots. You'll need the guidance from service manual to remove the inst' panel.
When I put forth the effort to remove this panel I do everything I can do while in there. Reseal wiper pivots, flipped 180 degrees from where they were. New defrost tubes, Lube blend door cables and climate controller. Lube or replace speedometer cable. 8 new bulbs and sockets. Amp gauge converted to volt gauge. Mechanical gauge voltage limiter replaced with solid state regulator. gauge screens cleaned and needles repainted.
Sure its a bit costly but better than repeating panel R&R for one thing after another. Only mistake I made was buying cheap bulb sockets from ebay. First to fail was of course one of those you can't easily replace from underneath (right turn). My lesson learned. Although my custom rally panel is easier to R&R than OEM, I don't expect I'll need to.
 
With the instrument panel removed you can access the motor, linkage, and pivots. You'll need the guidance from service manual to remove the inst' panel.
When I put forth the effort to remove this panel I do everything I can do while in there. Reseal wiper pivots, flipped 180 degrees from where they were. New defrost tubes, Lube blend door cables and climate controller. Lube or replace speedometer cable. 8 new bulbs and sockets. Amp gauge converted to volt gauge. Mechanical gauge voltage limiter replaced with solid state regulator. gauge screens cleaned and needles repainted.
Sure its a bit costly but better than repeating panel R&R for one thing after another. Only mistake I made was buying cheap bulb sockets from ebay. First to fail was of course one of those you can't easily replace from underneath (right turn). My lesson learned. Although my custom rally panel is easier to R&R than OEM, I don't expect I'll need to.

Agreed. I had done most of that already and had(thought i had) the wipers working, so I buttoned everything up except for the glove box. Not looking forward to doing it again.
 
If it's a non-A/C car, I find it easier to pull the whole wiper transmission out as a unit to work on. Still not easy, but, less frustrating than standing on your head trying to repair it under the dash. If it's just the drive link, you can sometimes work on that once you pull the wiper motor from the cowl and just leave the linkage and pivots in place. That will depend on the condition of the rest of the system.
 
Finally got everything squared away. What a pain.... pretty much everything was mismatched from the crank arm to the switch to the stripped wiper arms.
 
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