Bracket Car Wiring Help

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Another question when I get to that part of the job - what about running more than one thing on one circuit? For example running both the radiator fan and cooler fan to the same switch? Or I think someone suggested to me water pump and radiator fan on one switch and cooler can on another? I may have that wrong though.

Thanks.

I keep the water pump and electric fan on separate switches.....as sometimes I run just the water pump ...circulate the water to warm up the engine without the cooling fan trying to cool it off......especially if you have been sitting in the staging lanes waiting .....but that is just my preference ....
 
JMO, there is no good reason to run a ford solenoid if running the starter load through the cut off switch.
I’m sure you are right I just needed somewhere to hook the neutral safety switch and since I didn’t have a factory start relay the ford solenoid sounded like a good option. I like the two big posts on the sides also for the connections.

I could be missing something though for sure.
 
I keep the water pump and electric fan on separate switches.....as sometimes I run just the water pump ...circulate the water to warm up the engine without the cooling fan trying to cool it off......especially if you have been sitting in the staging lanes waiting .....but that is just my preference ....
This is the way that made the most sense to me also.

What about running the radiator fan and transmission cooler fan off the same switch. See any issues there?

Thanks!
 
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Ok all after the long delay I get the car back tomorrow so this wiring job will be started this weekend. Just a couple last (hopefully) questions. I redid my diagram as @fklskv suggested so I think I may understand that part finally.

My next questions concern the painless wiring. It also lists a wire for both start and ignition switch/ignition coil. (page 1 of this thread) Do these attach as well as the wiring discussed before? And in the same places? I assume so but wanted to confirm.

Also. You may notice from that manual page that the painless kit has just a wire for tail lights and also a separate relayed circuit labeled headlights. I will not be running headlights - but will have front park lights and tail lights as well as gauge lights. Which of these two options would be best for what I have planned?

Thanks all for your help!
 
This is the way that made the most sense to me also.

What about running the radiator fan and transmission cooler fan off the same switch. See any issues there?

Thanks!
You could ... if you want to give up separate control.
Then again ... If the trans-cooler is in front of the radiator and the rad fan is behind it's almost redundant.
If the trans-cooler is mounted elsewhere just find a spot for an additional switch/relay.
 
View attachment 1715573859 Ok all after the long delay I get the car back tomorrow so this wiring job will be started this weekend. Just a couple last (hopefully) questions. I redid my diagram as @fklskv suggested so I think I may understand that part finally.

My next questions concern the painless wiring. It also lists a wire for both start and ignition switch/ignition coil. (page 1 of this thread) Do these attach as well as the wiring discussed before? And in the same places? I assume so but wanted to confirm.

Also. You may notice from that manual page that the painless kit has just a wire for tail lights and also a separate relayed circuit labeled headlights. I will not be running headlights - but will have front park lights and tail lights as well as gauge lights. Which of these two options would be best for what I have planned?

Thanks all for your help!

Are you getting the 16 volts shown in your drawing from a dual terminal battery or a DC to DC step-up convertor?

Consider brake light :rolleyes:
 
You could ... if you want to give up separate control.
Then again ... If the trans-cooler is in front of the radiator and the rad fan is behind it's almost redundant.
If the trans-cooler is mounted elsewhere just find a spot for an additional switch/relay.
You were right, the cooler is mounted in front of the radiator and the cooling fan is between radiator and engine.
 
Are you getting the 16 volts shown in your drawing from a dual terminal battery or a DC to DC step-up convertor?

Consider brake light :rolleyes:
Sorry, that’s just my chicken scratch. I think what you see as 16 volts is ignition switch on my switch panel in my drawing.

Brake light would be fine but there’s no brake light switch to operate them. My local track requires a red light on rear of car so I need tail lights at least.
 
I run one led tail light. That turns on along with gauge lighting. No lights in the front. You could tee off that wire if you want parking lights

I also run a stacked plate trans cooler, no fan. I do run a trans brake and the trans temp runs around 160.

Not saying my way is right or wrong but its works for me. IMHO
 
I run one led tail light. That turns on along with gauge lighting. No lights in the front. You could tee off that wire if you want parking lights

I also run a stacked plate trans cooler, no fan. I do run a trans brake and the trans temp runs around 160.

Not saying my way is right or wrong but its works for me. IMHO
Thanks. So do you think I’d be ok just using the brown fused wire from the painless box for those 3 things and not the related headlight one?

Also, did you have a chance to look at the pink and purple IGN and START sections from the painless manual? Trying to make sure where those go.

Thank you!
 
Ign goes to the msd box.

Start goes to one small terminal on the start relay. The other small terminal is the ground through your nss.
 
Ign goes to the msd box.

Start goes to one small terminal on the start relay. The other small terminal is the ground through your nss.
Thanks!

So it should look like this? The manual says pink (IGN) goes to ignition coil, but since the msd box feeds the ignition coil is that why it goes to the box?

Sorry for all the questions!! Just trying to make this as simple install as possible as I’m trying to get on the track by the end of the month. I appreciate all the help.

F3DDC4AE-75CD-4B27-91CD-0FECB9246AFE.jpeg
 
I’m sorry but I’m not quite getting this. It does appear the “start” (purple) wiring in my latest diagram is wrong.

the NSS at the shifter only has to spots for wire connections. If one is to ground does the other post on the NSS get both the purple wire and the wire from the solenoid?

Sorry for my confusion.
 
The nss is the ground for the relay. When the car is in park the circuit is grounded. The relay workS when you feed It power from the start button. when its in drive now the nss is open and the starter wont operate
 
The nss is the ground for the relay. When the car is in park the circuit is grounded. The relay workS when you feed It power from the start button. when its in drive now the nss is open and the starter wont operate
I appreciate your patience. I am trying to understand. So since it’s one circuit are you saying the painless wire to the ground pole on the NSS and the other pole to the solenoid?
 
The ground wire goes from gnd. Through the nss and to the relay. It has nothing to do with the painless

the other wire is the hot when you push the start button
 
? "Painless" :BangHead:
Wiring can be a painful in the you know what ...

Just run a new wire for the NSS
What you have to understand first is the NSS 'makes or breaks' the ground side not the hot side.

I ain't no Picasso ... but neither are you. LOL
Start with this ... and please tell me what a "painless bar' is ... is that the switch panel ?
.
Duster start circut wire.jpg
 
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? "Painless" :BangHead:
Wiring can be a painful in the you know what ...

Just run a new wire for the NSS
What you have to understand first is the NSS 'makes or breaks' the ground side not the hot side.

I ain't no Picasso ... but neither are you. LOL
Start with this ... and please tell me what a "painless bar' is ... is that the switch panel ?
.
View attachment 1715574913
No Picasso for sure. And this has certainly been the opposite of a painless wiring project. Painless box is what my drawing should say. The car has no wiring at all so I bought a painless wiring race car harness with a fuse/relay box and wiring where one set of wires goes to the switch panel and the other set of wires goes to start/ign/water pump etc.

Trying to make that work with my msd box and ford style solenoid since my battery is in the trunk and I have no starter relay.
 
I used the white streaks to erase the wires not needed off of your drawing.
also ... Note the GND (ground) wire off the NSS.

The MSD gets power from the IGN switch and the Solenoid coil gets energized by the push (momentary) start button.
The coil can't get energized unless the car is in neutral (or park) because the Neutral Starter Switch provides the ground patch for the solenoid coil.

One side of the solenoid coil is hot and the other side is ground ... and ... that is in an open state (not grounded) unless the NSS contacts are closed by the shifter lever in the correct position.
 
I used the white streaks to erase the wires not needed off of your drawing.
also ... Note the GND (ground) wire off the NSS.

The MSD gets power from the IGN switch and the Solenoid coil gets energized by the push (momentary) start button.
The coil can't get energized unless the car is in neutral (or park) because the Neutral Starter Switch provides the ground patch for the solenoid coil.

One side of the solenoid coil is hot and the other side is ground ... and ... that is in an open state (not grounded) unless the NSS contacts are closed by the shifter lever in the correct position.

I looked at the picture a couple of times before it clicked that your white lines were meant to delete wires from the diagram ha.

I know it’s hard to tell from my drawing, but what you show here is only one wire going to the starter and you show it going to the small post as I have it drawn. Not sure if that was intentional or not.

I understand that the MSD gets power from
the ignition switch but it has two red power wires. I had the small one to ignition switch and the heavy 12 gauge red to the solenoid for power for the box.

Sorry I know I’m not explaining it well
 
I have a 100a relay that is triggered by a switched on that powers a 6 circuit fuse block on my apron. Its protected by an 80 breaker.
I did not want to have to go back in to my harness if I decided to add something later.
 
I have a 100a relay that is triggered by a switched on that powers a 6 circuit fuse block on my apron. Its protected by an 80 breaker.
I did not want to have to go back in to my harness if I decided to add something later.
I understand. There is no factory harness or any other wiring in my car. So I have the painless box with relayed circuits to run the car. I planned to power it and the MSD box through the hot side of the solenoid with a 100 amp fuse in between.
 
There are more pages if needed but I think these are the two we need.

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