Engine stalls when turning

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512Stroker

512Stroker

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Coming off the highway (60 mph) under moderate braking and turning the engine will stall and die. It will restart immediately with only couple seconds of cranking.
All other running characteristics are normal.
What it is
67 Barracuda,727 with 3000rpm converter, 3:55 gear
.030 over 340 X head, 10:1, mild roller cam
Edelbrock 1407 carb on a dual plane manifold, Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump.
Complete FBO electronic ignition 14* initial 18* mechanical with vacuum advance
Autolite 63 plugs
So far I have
Changed plugs - old ones looked perfect
Disassembled carb checked float settings, cleaned center squinter and venturi's - all appeared normal.
Replaced accelerator pump and increased primary jet one size.
Checked fuel pressure and to my surprise it is 8-9 psi - high - verified with 3 different gauges. New pump on order
Added 1/2 turn on the idle mixture screws and turned idle up to 900rpm - still stalls

None of the above made any change to the stalling.
My hair is falling out and my gums a bleeding from stress, I had the wife hide all my guns.
 
I would wait till you get the fuel pump. might be that you are flooding the carb / engine under the conditions you described.
 
Just to be clear if you were to turn the same corner but at a lower speed no issue?
if you were to turn the same radius and speed but the other direction no problem?

1st question relates to possibility that a wire is being affected by the turning, (mechanically moving or being rubbed on by a suspension or other moving part)
2nd question relates to carb being the issue. I would expect that it would not matter left or right turn if it was fuel system related BUT it might.
 
Back in my rookie days the same thing would happen to my Polara. I finally traced it to the battery slipping in the tray and the positive cable grounding out on the fender. I reoriented everything and made sure the hold down was secure. Maybe you have a hot wire somewhere that is doing something similar?
 
Check all the wiring around the steering column. This will turn out to be something super simple.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Just to be clear if you were to turn the same corner but at a lower speed no issue?
if you were to turn the same radius and speed but the other direction no problem?

1st question relates to possibility that a wire is being affected by the turning, (mechanically moving or being rubbed on by a suspension or other moving part)
2nd question relates to carb being the issue. I would expect that it would not matter left or right turn if it was fuel system related BUT it might.
Click to expand...
Does no matter left or right same.
If I take the same turn slow, no issue
I can also feather the throttle to keep it running but it wants to die.
 
mbaird said:
Check all the wiring around the steering column. This will turn out to be something super simple.
Click to expand...
Wiring is all relatively new (Painles) aftermarket harness, but that dont mean that it could be pinched somewhere. I will inspect
It will die if I brake hard in a straight line.
I just have a gut feeling that it is fuel related.
Thanks
 
512Stroker said:
Coming off the highway (60 mph) under moderate braking and turning the engine will stall and die. It will restart immediately with only couple seconds of cranking.
All other running characteristics are normal.
What it is
67 Barracuda,727 with 3000rpm converter, 3:55 gear
.030 over 340 X head, 10:1, mild roller cam
Edelbrock 1407 carb on a dual plane manifold, Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump.
Complete FBO electronic ignition 14* initial 18* mechanical with vacuum advance
Autolite 63 plugs
So far I have
Changed plugs - old ones looked perfect
Disassembled carb checked float settings, cleaned center squinter and venturi's - all appeared normal.
Replaced accelerator pump and increased primary jet one size.
Checked fuel pressure and to my surprise it is 8-9 psi - high - verified with 3 different gauges. New pump on order
Added 1/2 turn on the idle mixture screws and turned idle up to 900rpm - still stalls

None of the above made any change to the stalling.
My hair is falling out and my gums a bleeding from stress, I had the wife hide all my guns.
Click to expand...

That needs a fuel pressure regulator. I bet the new pump is just as high. Edelbrock and Carter carburetors don't like to see over 5PSI and 4 is better. I bet somehow since it's probably on the ragged edge that the extra force of the turn and braking is adding to the needle being pushed off the seat.

At least it sounds good anyway. LOL
 
512Stroker said:
Does no matter left or right same.
If I take the same turn slow, no issue
I can also feather the throttle to keep it running but it wants to die.
Click to expand...
Might want to closely inspect the air horn gasket in the carb. Look for any soft spots or tears near the holes and passage edges. I would think it's leaning out if you can feather it and keep it running, if it's choking out you should see black smoke from the tailpipe.
 
Last edited:
What happens if you power brake to about 2500 rpm, then rapidly let off the gas peddle?
 
My bet in on a carb problem. Bowl vent adjustment? Unloader adjustment? High fuel pressure causing flooding? Float rubbing/binding during hard braking/turning?
 
there was a similar thread on another forum recently with an edelbrock carb doing just this. one guy suggested this is a known fault with edelbrock carbs and there is a fix in the instructions/website for them. he's normally pretty reliable with advise so i thought it's worth mentioning.
neil.
 
Northern Grit said:
Might want to closely inspect the air horn gasket in the carb. Look for any soft spots or tears near the holes and passage edges. I would think it's leaning out if you can feather it and keep it running, if it's choking out you should see black smoke from the tailpipe.
Click to expand...
Replaced the horn gasket - no change
I do need to have someone follow me and watch for over fueling.
stay tuned
 
I when it stalls what do u do to restart it? Crank it right up? Hold pedal to the metal, then crank? Pump the **** out of it? When it stalls, stop and take the air cleaner off, what do u see? Vapours coming out the top, no vapours? Pump the carb once to see if it’s squirting gas or not. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
I when it stalls what do u do to restart it? Crank it right up? Hold pedal to the metal, then crank? Pump the **** out of it? When it stalls, stop and take the air cleaner off, what do u see? Vapours coming out the top, no vapours? Pump the carb once to see if it’s squirting gas or not. Kim
Click to expand...
Just hit the key and it will fire up and run normal.
I have to see if I can get to a spot to pull mover and check it after it stalls
Dam near got run over when it happened yesterday.
 
Dose it ever happen cold, or only after warming up? I only ask because I wonder if the gas (modern) is boiling in the bowl and then when it sloshes forward the main jet is only sucking the foam that happens on top when fluids boil. If this was the case it would refire as soon as the liquid sloshes back enough to cover the main jet. A heat shield or spacer below the carb could help if that was the case.
 
512Stroker said:
Coming off the highway (60 mph) under moderate braking and turning the engine will stall and die. It will restart immediately with only couple seconds of cranking.
All other running characteristics are normal.
What it is
67 Barracuda,727 with 3000rpm converter, 3:55 gear
.030 over 340 X head, 10:1, mild roller cam
Edelbrock 1407 carb on a dual plane manifold, Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump.
Complete FBO electronic ignition 14* initial 18* mechanical with vacuum advance
Autolite 63 plugs
So far I have
Changed plugs - old ones looked perfect
Disassembled carb checked float settings, cleaned center squinter and venturi's - all appeared normal.
Replaced accelerator pump and increased primary jet one size.
Checked fuel pressure and to my surprise it is 8-9 psi - high - verified with 3 different gauges. New pump on order
Added 1/2 turn on the idle mixture screws and turned idle up to 900rpm - still stalls

None of the above made any change to the stalling.
My hair is falling out and my gums a bleeding from stress, I had the wife hide all my guns.
Click to expand...
Today 8/8/20
Just for fun I swapped out the FBO ECU for an old orange box - no change.
Inspected under hood wiring - all good, nothing rubbing, nothing burnt.
With the hood open and the shop dark I had the wife start it and crank the steering wheel right and left multiple times, I was under the hood looking for any arching - none found
Had a little fun with the little Mrs in shop and gave up for the day.
 
Northern Grit said:
Dose it ever happen cold, or only after warming up? I only ask because I wonder if the gas (modern) is boiling in the bowl and then when it sloshes forward the main jet is only sucking the foam that happens on top when fluids boil. If this was the case it would refire as soon as the liquid sloshes back enough to cover the main jet. A heat shield or spacer below the carb could help if that was the case.
Click to expand...
I like your thinking I have wondered the same.
By the time I get out to the highway it is at operating temp 160*
I do have a thermal carb spacer in place.
The tank has 91 octane no ethanol fuel in it now.
A Cenex station near by now offers 93 that will be in the tank next after I run it down, maybe tonight.
 
mygasser said:
there was a similar thread on another forum recently with an edelbrock carb doing just this. one guy suggested this is a known fault with edelbrock carbs and there is a fix in the instructions/website for them. he's normally pretty reliable with advise so i thought it's worth mentioning.
neil.
Click to expand...
You are correct
I found it on Edelbrock's website
It states incorrect float levels and high fuel pressure can be the cause.
 
Shot in the dark here, water in fuel tank.
And i would check wiring under dash and the bulkhead connector.
 
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