Carburetor, MSD, Holley Sniper EFI questions
1. Is MSD 6a just a better form of electronic ignition?
Its just different.
The box internally builds an electric charge using a capacitor. Then the box releases this charge through the coil for every spark. Look up Capacitive Discharge (CD) ignition.
Points, HEI, Chrysler, Ford etc are inductive ignitions. Power through the coil winding builds a high voltage charge. This charge is released to the spark plugs everytime the connection is interupted.
Whether CD is better depends on what needs to be accomplished. At high rpms, and in difficult combustion environments a CD can sometimes have an advantage when matched with the right coil. It's usually at a slight disadvantage at low rpm, hence most use of multiple sparks at low rpms. (Many people including myself fire up the engines in subfreezing temperatures with no choke and an MSD, so I'd say it works well)
Inductive has potential to be a longer duration spark than CD. This can be an advantage when the flame kernal has difficulty growing as can happen with some of the reformulated gasoline we get. All depends on compression and heads etc etc.
3. Is there any benefit to running an electric fuel pump with a return to a carburetor?
Not really. Did you read or watch the master tech stuff on carburetor fundementals? :poke:
There's a big disadvantage of wiring in an electric fuel pump to the original wiring system. It's really not designed for that. Based on what you have expressed as your skill, and knowledge at this point I would not add one until you are ready for the EFI.
I'm just a guy with a garage and some tools. I have no formal mechanical training. So please dumb these answers down. I have never owned a car with a carburetor till now.
Its more about learning as much as I can before I do it.
That's cool. As long as you know the whole thing will be a journey, including the troubleshooting and tuning, then you won't have the regrets that those that think it (EFI) is a plug and chug. Enjoy the journey.
I do suggest sketching out some goals and plans that will get you to each goal. Right now I see you have threads on suspension, carbs, and other things.
Decide on which targets you want to shoot and knock down first, second, third.
Also if you are willing and have the organization and determination to tie up the car until all the goals are hit.
This is a cause of many project cars not getting complete.
My suggestion is to break up the goals and projects needed to accomplish goal. Then see how it each works in priority and into the calendar. This way you can shake out any issues individually after each project.
I want to go to EFI for easier starting. The car takes a enough energy to start already. I also would like to take a few road trips and I don't want elevation, etc. to cause me problems after sitting overnight. The wiring on this car is pretty old. Starting the car I have to pump the pedal 3 times, turn the key and keep my foot on the pedal for a minute or two. After that the car may decide to stay on or it may cutoff. I am willing to do what it takes to stop doing this dance with the car when I want to drive it.
George Jets if I had to guess, I would say I am the problem. When the car starts it runs fine. Right now I am learning everything on the fly here.
Difficult starting is pretty easy to fix then isn't it? LOL
As George Jets pointed out the choke is wired open. Without the choke you will have to finess each start.
First start of the day, will need a richer mix which you are creating by using your foot to physically shoot fuel into the intake.
You will then have to use your foot and judgement to hold the throttle at the correct opening for starting, and keeping it running immediately after starting.
Later starts in the day will need less pump shot to start, and may need more initial throttle opening. Even with no choke sometimes its neccessary to hold the throttle slightly open for hot starts.
First start after sitting for more than a day will vary with climate, where the car is, and whether there is a vapor capture system.
That said, in general, the most volatile components of the fuel will have evaporated out of the intake and to a lesser extent, the bowl. This is like trying to start a campfire without tinder. So it takes a little more effort. Even with a working choke a few pump shots are often needed. Really no big deal once you're used to it.
I changed a few bulbs, installed a more modern sound system
Hope its wired to the fuse box.
I did a post when I first got the car to try and attempt to figure out what carb was on the car. I think it said1450, but I would have to go back and check on that. I remember it had a bold W with a line under it. Could be a knock off for all I know. The ignition is a mopar electric connected to a msd blaster coil (from what I can tell and I could be wrong).
You're tackling a BIG Project. Get a notebook, file system, clipboard and wrtie stuff down. Coming up with a note system that works for you can take some time. I use all the above plus spreasheets on the computer. Again, whatever works for you so you can find the info again. Also every time you write stuff down it will help you remember. If you watch videos, take notes.
Damn man thats masters level carb speak you got going on there. I'm intrigued. I am going to order this part tomorrow... Nevermind, I just ordered it. Just want to see if these changes make a difference.
Seems like this is a good starting point! Review what George wrote. Then look in the shop manual and the master tech to get familiar with any terms that don't make sense. Still questions after that; then post them in one of your carb threads.
