Rough-idling 360, can't figure it out!

Have you considered the MP electronic ignition kit? Bsically set it and forget it. Get a hot spark going and never look back. yes t in to your fuel system check the pressure, also you can do things like put your inductive timing light lead on each wire,shine it somewhere dark, see if there is a rhythm to the strobe light...a bad wire will be an erratic strobe rhythm. I don't know what you have for wires,but Beldens are junk. I guess what Im saying is if the wires are newer they can still be junk, one bad wire will cause a misfire. Three things will make an engine not run, Mechanical failure( worn cam lobes) Timing,( ignition or the timing belt/chain "jumps a tooth")
lack of of spark( distributor cap,rotor,wires,points or module) or lack of fuel( out of gas, low fuel pressure,restricted carburetor passages ,stuck float etc)
thois four things are what you are after in your elimination process, a compression check will tell you if there is a mechanical or broken engine internal part like the valves and cam lobes( it sounds like you already fixed these issues with the sunken valve) it may be safe to eliminate internal engine issues at this point and move on to the other three. Once you start thinking thios way, the stress kin dof backs off then you systematically go through your checks untill the problem rears its head. For example when ever I had a "no start" job, the first thing id do is spray carb ckeaner into the intake and crank it, if it fired i knew I had spark and it was a fuel issue. Took less that 5 minutes to do that check. But that eliminates spark as the culprit. Just pointers so the process doesn't drive you crazy.

I used a Pertronix Ignitor 2 setup to convert from points because I've heard the quality of the new electronic ECUs is junk and it was easier/cheaper. Plug wires are Summit brand 8mm spiral-core which IIRC I checked the resistances and they were all good.

I've pretty much gone through all the standard troubleshooting you mentioned except for fuel pressure and flow to the carb.

Something regarding ignition though... when I pulled the cap and rotor I noticed the wear was on one edge of the contacts, not the center. Could this be causing issues? Like maybe the rotor for the magnetic pickup isn't phased right with the spark rotor?