Dead old 750 Holley - Resurrected !
Not too bad.... the initial fly-cut (.002) is showing the burring around the drillings knocked down..
One more cut.
That did the trick ! circle and arrow is showing where I 'steaked' the booster crimps
I decided to tap for 8-32 threads to accept jets for T-slot reducers.
I used the chuck to make sure I'm straight.
To make the jets, I use brass 8-32 set screws. I've got a piece of 1/8x1 1 1/2 long with 8-32 treads centered in it. then I clamp a second piece of 1/8x1x1 1/2 to it to keep the set from spinning out when I drill. In this case .076"
Yes, drilled from the end. I will de-burr it before I install it.
Secondary side gets the same surface treatment..
This side is technically worse... The yellow circle is showing some gasket survived the Fly-Cutter. (which I will have to sharpen, I've got some chatter marks going on here..) The green circle is where I touched the fly-cutter for zero on my next cut.
Better, but the yellow circle is showing the accelerator channel is still below the surface!! (nice finish this time :) )
My knife is pointing to a slight low spot, but the good news (Lt green arrow) the accelerator channel is flush now.
Next up is something I like to do to avoid the drilling of the primary throttle blades, in the event idle quality cannot be obtained when larger cams are used.
While this is NOT a 4 corner idle carb, there is however very small idle feed holes in the secondary side. So, rather than drilling holes in the Pri blades, I like to install/replace the sec opening stop screw with a modified idle adjustment screw.
If proper idle speed gets you too deep into the transfer slot, and renders the idle adjust/mix screws inoperable, just back off the jamb nut here, and turn in/up the screw to open the secondaries a bit, and re-tighten the jamb-nut.
Much easier to do, while it's on the car..
TO BE CONTINUED...
Not too bad.... the initial fly-cut (.002) is showing the burring around the drillings knocked down..
One more cut.
That did the trick ! circle and arrow is showing where I 'steaked' the booster crimps
I decided to tap for 8-32 threads to accept jets for T-slot reducers.
To make the jets, I use brass 8-32 set screws. I've got a piece of 1/8x1 1 1/2 long with 8-32 treads centered in it. then I clamp a second piece of 1/8x1x1 1/2 to it to keep the set from spinning out when I drill. In this case .076"
Secondary side gets the same surface treatment..
Next up is something I like to do to avoid the drilling of the primary throttle blades, in the event idle quality cannot be obtained when larger cams are used.
While this is NOT a 4 corner idle carb, there is however very small idle feed holes in the secondary side. So, rather than drilling holes in the Pri blades, I like to install/replace the sec opening stop screw with a modified idle adjustment screw.
If proper idle speed gets you too deep into the transfer slot, and renders the idle adjust/mix screws inoperable, just back off the jamb nut here, and turn in/up the screw to open the secondaries a bit, and re-tighten the jamb-nut.
Much easier to do, while it's on the car..
TO BE CONTINUED...