Oil pressure question...I promise it's not another "who likes what' thread!

Just got my 440/505" on the road. Broke the cam in with Comp 15w-50, changed oil & filter after cam run-in, refilled with the same grade oil, and put a few hundred miles on it. I wanted to get some new oil in it, so I went one step thinner and dumped in some 10w-40. Hot pressures with the 15w-50 were 25-30 psi at idle and up around 60 after about 2500 RPM. Now, with the 10-40 I'm making 20 psi max at idle and 55 thereafter. Seems a little lower than I'd like to see on the gauge, but the engine 'seems' happier. A little quieter up front and smoother, and the gauge needle is much steadier. Bigger difference appears to be at idle--I'm at 950-1000/neutral and 850 in gear (auto trans). By the way, it be hot here...
It's in your basic fun street car, lots of zipping around town miles and sitting in traffic. Famoso T&T night eeevery once in awhile. Main feed passages were enlarged to 9/32". Mains came in at .003" rods are .028". Clevite 'H'-series bearings from the 440source kit. EDM lifters on a solid cam, 250 @ .050" with .555" lift, not super crazy. Running a high-volume pump. Mancini/Harland rocker arms (no bearings on the shafts) and a B3 kit on the top end, plenty of oil up top every time I've pulled the covers. All of these factors together seem to be contributing to the pressure readings, which is fine, "it is what it is"..
So, okay to run with the 10-40? Or go back to the heavier stuff?
Thanks
Two things you didn't mention. Oil filter type . That should be WIX or NAPA Gold. Another is converter stall. To low of a converter for a built motor will wipe the thrust bearing at idle in gear. While under pressure the converter is always pushing on the crank. The higher the stall the less the pressure. Exactly why you should never sit at a redlight for long periods with the clutch depressed on a stick car. Diaphragm clutches are easier on the thrust bearing.