Billet Wheel adapter ?

oi81b4uu812b4 said
Once again this is completely wrong information. The hub centric Chrysler uses is 2.805" [ 71.25mm ] DIA not 71mm . That would be a .010" interference if you used 71mm. If the hub in your rims were ordered with a 71mm bore, and they don't seem to slide over the hub centric on the axle or rotor... that would be why.

Some aftermarket manufacturer's don't give a **** and they just make the size under whatever Chrysler used, so they don't have parts sent back and your rims always fit. But you aren't using the hub centric to center your wheels and they could vibrate. That's because if the hub centric is say 70mm and you rim is for ***** and giggles is 71.25mm, your wheel could out of concentricity +/-.025" when bolted on.

If you are battling a vibration that you notice comes and goes when you put on or take off your wheels, that's usually the problem.

Clearly you haven’t actually measured a hub register on a stock replacement rotor in some time. They vary by a lot more than .25mm, even from the same manufacturer.

The outer surface of the hub registers are as cast on pretty much all the currently available mopar replacement rotors. I wouldn’t even count on the registers being concentric to a tight tolerance. The lugs are far more likely to be centered to a tightly controlled tolerance than the outside of the hub registers.

oi81b4uu812b4 said
Lower profile tires and less forgiving radials today. But I remember working on old muscle cars in the 80’s and having vibration issues and tires that made wallowing sounds as they were driven down the road.

And who doesn’t remember somebody having their shank style lugnuts whop out a rim?

I feel like someone working in your industry should know that many currently manufactured cars are lug centric, and pretty much all of those run modern lower profile radials.

RedFish said
My earliest memory of loosening lug nuts, 1976.... good friends I grew up with. He bought a new VW Beetle for his new wife. The dealership had added the aftermarket alloy wheels. Wasn't long before he learned he would need to check/retorque lug nuts every few hundred miles. Pattern adapters? Hubcentric? I dont know. Just saying its not a modern problem

All aluminum rims are supposed to be re-torqued on a regular interval. Definitely not a modern problem, it’s just a consequence of the material. Regardless of the use of spacers if you have aluminum rims the torque needs to be checked on a schedule.

oi81b4uu812b4 said
There is no set regulations as to how these get made. (2) maybe made one way, (2) another way. Or (4) different from each other. It’s eBay! The only thing they will have in common is the adapt the bolt patterns and are about the same thickness.

You need to look for T6 billet ones. Then you need to look at how they are actually machined. (Not the eBay pic, it’s generic showing you the perfect world where everything worked out).

The problem with the adapters going from 4” BC to 4-1/2” is the bore they put down the middle. It usually cuts into the c’bores on the 4” pattern, by a lot. And some of them were designed to use a 1/2” lug nut on the 4” BC. When you go to use say a 7/16 lug they bottom out before the tapers make contact on the thin adapters. Then some of them use such a small OD that it cuts into the c’bores for the lugs that are pressed in for the 4-1/2” BC.

I would look for the T6 adapters that slip fit over the hub centric on the axle side and give you a hub centric to mount your wheel onto. But that’s just me.

These things are always a gamble. They could be great or they could be Chinesium materials and prototyped on a donkey cart.

If you want one made the way you describe for this application you’ll have to make it yourself, because they’re not out there to find.