Ignition Demon 74 Slant 6
Ok just for starters, here is the definitive basic diagrams for GM and Mopar systems
Also, with everything off in the car for at least an hour, check the battery voltage right at the battery terminals. If it is less or much less than 12.2V charge the battery or have it tested. A NEW BATTERY (or any other component) is no guarantee that the component is "good" AKA "not defective."
One danger you have is that because of a possible mistake, or even a defect in manufacture, you may have failed the module or it may just be defective. Keep that in mind
You have a multimeter? You need to make CERTAIN the module is grounded to the screw eyes through the module.
The module MUST be mounted flat, and there is originally a "tit" on the bottom you must cut/ file off.
CHECK that the module is grounded with an ohmeter.
Otherwise it appears wired correct, so............
See if the voltage is correct.........
With key in "run" the coil+ terminal should show +12 "same as battery"
With key in "start" the coil+ terminal should also show "same as battery" but it will be lower because of cranking current. Regardless you want at least 10.5V or higher
If you are NOT getting these readings, "rig" an alligator clip lead to jumper battery power direct to the coil +
ALSO HOW are you checking spark? You may have something as simple as a break right in the coil wire. "Rig" a test gap and SOLID core wire out of the coil tower. Crank the engine and see. You should get about 3/8 or more likely 1/2" long nice hot snappy blue spark.
CHECK the distributor connector and the pickup coil. Those connectors are notorious for getting corroded/ loosing connection Work the connector in/ out several times, and "feel" for tightness, then inspect with a light for corrosion. Measure for continuity. Because of your modification, you can check the connector.......remove the two connections at the module and check right there. Post back the resistance.
INSPECT the cap and rotor for damage, wet, dirt, etc. Inspect the reluctor and pickup for debri, rust, damage. CHECK the reluctor--to pickup gap. Should be .008" That's inches not metric. Use a brass feeler which you can buy at Oh'Reallys
Connect the dist. pickup to your multimeter set for low AC volts. Crank the engine or spin the dist. It should generate about 1V AC
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
So far as the cranking problem, AGAIN a multimeter. Since you have elected to "throw parts" (and money) at the problem it is less likely to be a bad starter or battery
So take your multimeter
Clip the meter to the starter "big' solenoid terminal. Clip the other end to the engine block. Crank the engine until the thing starts to drag down (but do not crank it more than say, 20-30 seconds) and notice the voltage reading WHILE CRANKING
I'm sure it will be low. Now CAREFULLY feel the battery cable end terminals and even along the cables (both ground and hot) for heated / hot areas
If this gives no result, "rig" a way to hold the probes while cranking the engine. I used to do this with a remote starter switch (switch with alligator clips) held in one hand while holding the meter probes. "Stab" the probes directly into the top of the battery terminals. Crank the engine and read the meter. You again, should have at least 10.5V
If not, the battery is defective or dead
Post back what you find
Ok just for starters, here is the definitive basic diagrams for GM and Mopar systems
Also, with everything off in the car for at least an hour, check the battery voltage right at the battery terminals. If it is less or much less than 12.2V charge the battery or have it tested. A NEW BATTERY (or any other component) is no guarantee that the component is "good" AKA "not defective."
One danger you have is that because of a possible mistake, or even a defect in manufacture, you may have failed the module or it may just be defective. Keep that in mind
You have a multimeter? You need to make CERTAIN the module is grounded to the screw eyes through the module.
The module MUST be mounted flat, and there is originally a "tit" on the bottom you must cut/ file off.
CHECK that the module is grounded with an ohmeter.
Otherwise it appears wired correct, so............
See if the voltage is correct.........
With key in "run" the coil+ terminal should show +12 "same as battery"
With key in "start" the coil+ terminal should also show "same as battery" but it will be lower because of cranking current. Regardless you want at least 10.5V or higher
If you are NOT getting these readings, "rig" an alligator clip lead to jumper battery power direct to the coil +
ALSO HOW are you checking spark? You may have something as simple as a break right in the coil wire. "Rig" a test gap and SOLID core wire out of the coil tower. Crank the engine and see. You should get about 3/8 or more likely 1/2" long nice hot snappy blue spark.
CHECK the distributor connector and the pickup coil. Those connectors are notorious for getting corroded/ loosing connection Work the connector in/ out several times, and "feel" for tightness, then inspect with a light for corrosion. Measure for continuity. Because of your modification, you can check the connector.......remove the two connections at the module and check right there. Post back the resistance.
INSPECT the cap and rotor for damage, wet, dirt, etc. Inspect the reluctor and pickup for debri, rust, damage. CHECK the reluctor--to pickup gap. Should be .008" That's inches not metric. Use a brass feeler which you can buy at Oh'Reallys
Connect the dist. pickup to your multimeter set for low AC volts. Crank the engine or spin the dist. It should generate about 1V AC
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
So far as the cranking problem, AGAIN a multimeter. Since you have elected to "throw parts" (and money) at the problem it is less likely to be a bad starter or battery
So take your multimeter
Clip the meter to the starter "big' solenoid terminal. Clip the other end to the engine block. Crank the engine until the thing starts to drag down (but do not crank it more than say, 20-30 seconds) and notice the voltage reading WHILE CRANKING
I'm sure it will be low. Now CAREFULLY feel the battery cable end terminals and even along the cables (both ground and hot) for heated / hot areas
If this gives no result, "rig" a way to hold the probes while cranking the engine. I used to do this with a remote starter switch (switch with alligator clips) held in one hand while holding the meter probes. "Stab" the probes directly into the top of the battery terminals. Crank the engine and read the meter. You again, should have at least 10.5V
If not, the battery is defective or dead
Post back what you find