How "Anal" Are You With Respect to Runs in Paint?

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Two coats of RustOleum tractor enamel to fill the pits, then topcoat.

Or: Epoxy primer, filler, sand, epoxy primer, high build urethane primer, sand, topcoat. If 2 stage, wet sand and buff.

There is anal and and then there is anal?? lol
 
Who would have thought a run in a oil pan would get over 28 responses go figure:lol: If anyone asks tell them thats a factory run.
 
When the rest of it has rust the part under the run will be clean metal.
 
Yeah, that is what I have heard about you....Being from the Bay Area and all!



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I have never understood the use of this word in regards to being detail oriented.

Going back to my dusty old memories of the huge waste of time that junior college was...
This used to be a technical term, much like mentally retarded. It comes from psychology, Sigmund Freud used it as a descriptive term for infants who were fastidious, and didn't play with their poop. As opposed to the mentally retarded individuals who played with their own poop, referred to as anal expulsive.

The story from the professor was that some infants/children got caught "playing in the mud," so to speak, got such a thrashing that they learned to retain their ****...
 
Uhhh....
I read any reference to ANAL and instantly see it as a literal reference.
I'm that way with a LOT of language though. My default thought is to take each word in literal terms.
I don't like hearing "How are you"? unless the person asking really means it.
I don't like when people say....."The speed limit sign said 55". Signs don't say anything. They cannot speak.
Take a piss.
Held my breath for an hour.
She must have dated a hundred guys.
The car made 500 horsepower.
I'm starving.
NONE of the above are factually correct when most people say them but we accept them as being a figurative description, not literal.
I find that stuff funny.
 
I'd sand and repaint, that would bug me and I wouldn't let it slide. Just because you can't see something doesn't mean it isn't there.

I have done "body work" on oil pans before because they shouldn't have any dents and then painted them with the same process you would paint the car with.

I always primer engine parts, never just spray engine paint straight on because the color will fade faster than over primer.

I'd absolutely re do that pan
 
It's just an oil pan, but bugs me a little bit. After having painted the block earlier, I can now see that painting sheet metal demands a quicker stroke/pass than cast iron or the paint may run. No, I am not going to sand and start over.

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Well, It either bugs you enough to fix it, or it doesn't. I think it does bother you a bit, or you would not have started this thread. Here is my thought. I am totally anal with paint runs. I would fix that run. Even if nobody would ever see it, I would know it was there. It will take very little time to sand the run, scuff the entire pan, and respray it. I do a LOT of painting, so here are a few questions for you. The pan looked pretty rough. How did you prep it. If all you did was sand it a bit and spray paint on it, the chances of a good, long lasting result is pretty low. The rust needs to be treated with something. There are lots of treatments that will kill rust and/or convert it into a hard, black substance. Next question is what kind of paint did you use? Some are better than others. Rattle can or spray gun? Properly applied, Dupli Color engine paint works very well. Did you use any primer? As rough as that oil pan looked, you should have. Unless the paint can says that DTM (direct to metal) application is OK, I would use primer. Actually, I would use primer anyway, but if you don't want to use primer and are VERY careful and make your first few coats light and observe an appropriate flash time, those first few coats can serve as a primer. How heavy were the coats. Remember that the first coat is ALWAYS a light coat called a tack coat. never go for coverage with the first coat. One very light coat, followed by a medium coat, followed by a medium wet coat, followed by a wet coat is the way to go. Observe manufacturers suggested flash times; giving a bit more flash time before the final wet coat. go for about 50% overlap and move fast enough to help avoid the runs. After a few passes, you will find a speed that will work.
 
For the curious, my oil pan prep included detergent washing, wire brush/drill, wax and grease remover, Ospho coat, RustOleum rust convertor, Duplicolor engine paint, Duplicolor engine clear coat. I forget now, maybe a session of Naval Jelly in there, too.

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