Power Steering box leaking?

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TF360

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74 Duster- So my Power Steering Box is leaking, but it works fine. What are my options? I know Lucas has a fluid that they claim will stop a leak. Any other options aside from a new box? Thanks for your input.
 
I have the same problem with mine. It is leaking around the input shaft. It was dripping at a pretty good rate. I used some of the Lucas stop leak and it helped some. Still leaking, but not as fast. I will probably try and fix it this winter.
 
I have the same problem with mine. It is leaking around the input shaft. It was dripping at a pretty good rate. I used some of the Lucas stop leak and it helped some. Still leaking, but not as fast. I will probably try and fix it this winter.
^^^^^^
Same thing here
Mine drips of the output shaft
Can that seal be changed in place or will I have to pull the steering box?
 
I have never done one, but looks like the box has to come out. Not much room around there.

Edit: Just noticed you were talking about the output seal. I think that can be changed in the car. I have seen posts about it on here.
 
It is leaking around the input shaft.

I can tell you a little about this from my steering box adventures. The pressure side of a stock Mopar box is between 700 and over 1000 psi for B and C bodies, actually the pump spec. That's part of why they feel like novocaine in your arms. The return side is very low pressure, like 4 psi back to the pump. That's why you can remove the cap while idling. If the seals in the steering box wear - and they will eventually - the high pressure side leaks through internally, putting too much fluid around the input shaft. Eventually, you'll need to replace the seals.
 
I can tell you a little about this from my steering box adventures. The pressure side of a stock Mopar box is between 700 and over 1000 psi for B and C bodies, actually the pump spec. That's part of why they feel like novocaine in your arms. The return side is very low pressure, like 4 psi back to the pump. That's why you can remove the cap while idling. If the seals in the steering box wear - and they will eventually - the high pressure side leaks through internally, putting too much fluid around the input shaft. Eventually, you'll need to replace the seals.

Are you telling me that if I replace the External shaft seals, that may not solve my leak due to internal problems? I would hate to go to all that trouble and not fix it.
 
Have you seen the rebuild kits for these? Here is the seal , looks like a sector shaft seal out of a 904. 2 bucks
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When I built my 74 Scamp I had a leak from the input shaft seal. After disconnecting the steering shaft and pulling the steering column back a little I was able to drill a very tiny hole in the seal housing, then start a small screw in the hole and then put a pair of vice grips on the end of the screw and tap on the vice grips to pop the seal out, it worked out very well. Installing a new seal was easy with a deep socket the correct size and make sure you lube up the new seal before you re-connect the steering shaft it never leaked again.
Bob
 
When I built my 74 Scamp I had a leak from the input shaft seal. After disconnecting the steering shaft and pulling the steering column back a little I was able to drill a very tiny hole in the seal housing, then start a small screw in the hole and then put a pair of vice grips on the end of the screw and tap on the vice grips to pop the seal out, it worked out very well. Installing a new seal was easy with a deep socket the correct size and make sure you lube up the new seal before you re-connect the steering shaft it never leaked again.
Bob
That procedure went very bad for one of our members. I dont recall was his drill bit too big or what. He damaged either the shaft or the housing (my memory sux).
A center punch in the right spot, 1/16th drill bit, and a drywall screw will bring that upper seal out.
Fluid pressure will blow the lower seal right out into your catch pan, after pitman arm, dust cap, and snap ring are removed.
 
While nothing said above is untrue or incorrect in my opinion, in my experience it's usually just a worn out seal and both can be replaced in the car via the methods suggested. 66Cuda referenced just sliding back the column/coupler enough to change the upper. I have often removed the column from the car and serviced the input seal from inside the car thru the firewall hole. Main thing to remember is, however you remove the input or output seals you want to avoid scratching, nicking, or gouging the shafts with your tools or the new seals won't seal properly. That's why the drilled hole with screw method described works well, because you are pulling the seal straight out vs. trying to deform it and pry it out. Given the low cost of the seals, a high likelihood of a successful repair, and an afternoons work it's well worth the effort.
 
While nothing said above is untrue or incorrect in my opinion, in my experience it's usually just a worn out seal and both can be replaced in the car via the methods suggested. 66Cuda referenced just sliding back the column/coupler enough to change the upper. I have often removed the column from the car and serviced the input seal from inside the car thru the firewall hole. Main thing to remember is, however you remove the input or output seals you want to avoid scratching, nicking, or gouging the shafts with your tools or the new seals won't seal properly. That's why the drilled hole with screw method described works well, because you are pulling the seal straight out vs. trying to deform it and pry it out. Given the low cost of the seals, a high likelihood of a successful repair, and an afternoons work it's well worth the effort.
Good info - Thanks
Do you have a source for the seals?
 
My power brakes and exhaust manifold make top access difficult. Can you remove the roll pin from the bottom?
 
You know it has been about 5 years since I built that Scamp and honestly I do not remember how I took it out, but I do not remember taking it out from down below. If I remember correctly I faced the roll pin more towards the upper side of the inner fender well and was able to get a small punch in there to tap it out, but the steering column was out when I painted the engine compartment so it came out very easy for me the second time. My booster and manifolds were on it also.
Bob
 
My power brakes and exhaust manifold make top access difficult. Can you remove the roll pin from the bottom?
The box coupling has a tiny V notch in its lower edge that identifies where the master spline is. if my memory serves, with that notch top center the pin will be to the engine side of the coupling. There are drifts made for driving these type pins out. drive it out and back in from the top.
 
Looked at mine, looks like I will need to remove the power brake booster to do it.
 
Any advice on the output shaft on the underside in the middle upper area?
 
There are posts on here about the lower seal. I think the basic procedure is to remove the pitman arm, the snap ring that holds the seal in & turn the car on. The pressure blows the seal out. I haven’t done it yet, but as I understand it can make quite a mess.
 
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