Fuel tank installed

After getting all you guys input in my thread "Fuel tank recommendations ?" I have finished the install in my 69 Barracuda fastback and have few tip(s) First I bought a Sprectra tank (eBay, Tamraz) made in Canada. Electro nickel plated for corrosion resistance. I replaced the pad, floor gasket, filler neck gasket, fuel line ground strap (Vans). I painted the tank metallic silver and painted the old straps gloss black. It was recommended to me to buy a sender lock ring wrench (Vans) and I strongly agree. On the new tank the hole for the sender has a ring spot welded around it with the tangs for the lock ring. Theres six spot welds, two for each of the three tangs. The ring is somewhat distorted between the spot welds. When the lock ring that came with the tank is installed with the sender and gasket and you turn the ring, it snaps/stops when aligned with the indents on the tangs. Problem is, the little ramps on the lock ring aren't very tall and it didn't seal and leaked. When I was buying everything, I bought two extra lock rings from different sources hoping for a different design or better gasket. Bingo! One of those two had taller ramps (see picture, has "N" on part number ) and squeezed the gasket better and sealed. The wrench helped keep the lock and gasket from getting out of center in the opening, as the new style isn't as fool- proof as the originals. The pad I got from vans was nice thick foam and better than I was expecting.

Congratulations and welcome to the world of aftermarket parts! 65'

Went down the same road with aftermarket fuel tank parts. Glad to hear that Sprectra tank worked out, I had excellent results with Tank's Inc. as well.

Here's another tip: the car was up on Jack stands level, I put 5 gals. of gas in the empty new tank. I lowered the front end back down and the sender started leaking. Raised front, lowered rear, leak stops, make repairs and repeat before adding more gas.

good work. i just redid mine after it turned into a fountain. got the new lock ring from DTM. heavy duty stainless. where'd you get the one you used?

You may remember, that your problem was why I recommend the stainless tank. The spot welded ring distorts when installing the sending unit lock ring. You had already purchased the steel tank though. Good luck, hope it stays dry. Would still recommend the stainless to anyone who is switching out a tank.

CRUZE 418 said:

You may remember, that your problem was why I recommend the stainless tank. The spot welded ring distorts when installing the sending unit lock ring. You had already purchased the steel tank though. Good luck, hope it stays dry. Would still recommend the stainless to anyone who is switching out a tank.

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Hey Greg, glad you saw this thread.
Cruze418 helped me out, with advice and recommending parts including the lock ring wrench.
The lock ring that came with the tank is designed to only get so tight and not damage the flange. The one I used probably has the potential to break the spot welds loose if I were to try and tighten it completely. So if anyone else takes this route, be careful!
You can see the tabs, spot welds, lock ring that came with the tank , ground strap and just make out the foam padding above the tank.


I think it is sealed now but I feel like it is a one time use tank and I may not be as lucky next time. I would take Cruze418 recommendations for the stainless tank if the lock ring is better.

kursplat said:

good work. i just redid mine after it turned into a fountain. got the new lock ring from DTM. heavy duty stainless. where'd you get the one you used?

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I can only narrow it down to two sources for the lock ring. Vans or 521 restorations ($4.99 shipped) not sure whose worked. My original ring may have worked also I never checked.

The lock ring that came with my SS tank from Van's worked fine. I tried a thicker lock ring on my old tank ( Mega Parts ) carries it, ramps are higher, could not even get it in. It might work on another brand steel tank, but not my old inconel steel tank. I tested mine for leakage before installing it in the car, also, they might not leak with a gallon or two, but would with 10 or 18 gallons of fuel weight .
What did you end up using for a sending unit/pick up?

CRUZE 418 said:

The lock ring that came with my SS tank from Van's worked fine. I tried a thicker lock ring on my old tank ( Mega Parts ) carries it, ramps are higher, could not even get it in. It might work on another brand steel tank, but not my old inconel steel tank. I tested mine for leakage before installing it in the car, also, they might not leak with a gallon or two, but would with 10 or 18 gallons of fuel weight .
What did you end up using for a sending unit/pick up?

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I have ten gallons in it now, I bought a sending unit 3/8" at Carlisle, old style with no vent tube, and checked it out on my old tank (with 1/4 tank of gas) and it seemed fine, but right now while running, the gauge is fluctuating between 1/2 tank and 3/4 with the ten gallons. My old one worked fine but it is 5/16" line. My old tank was plumbed into the bottom with 1/2" for a poor man's race tank. Doing away with that and change from 1/2" to 3/8" fuel line prompted the tank change (along with the fifty years of crud).

So you bought a new sender/pick up unit?
They do not work well for the sending unit part, junk. If you have an OE unit, it can be reconditioned and fitted for 3/8 line. Elsewhere, meter match is a possibility.
I have 2 new sender/pick ups, thought that the new one in the tank when I bought the car was bad and bought another one, that's when I found for A bodies and that they were junk. Got an OE and had it reconditioned by Instrument Specialties. There are others that do the same thing

on mine, i also noticed the tangs on the tank side were a little tweaked, so i adjusted them for a better fit