Curious...how many racers run an alternator?

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I guess I should mention that we try to keep things simple as possible...with crash damage being pretty common having to replace belts, brackets and such complacates things.
 
I run a slant six (low horse power compared to a V-8). Use a Denso 90 amp alternator. If my battery is low, I have seen a 300 rpm difference in idle rpm between having the field wires connected, or disconnected. So I use a micro switch on my throttle to open the alternator field at WOT. System charges normally at all times except at full throttle. The micro switch also activates the NOS system. I have twin electric fuel pumps, MSD 6a, electric fan and WP (Moroso belt drive style). NOS solenoides, Lights for night racing. I don't need to do anything between rounds, except go pee. Even the fan and WPO shut off automaticly, at 140 degrees.
 
Ran a isolated voltage regulator and then ran a ground to a hood switch that remove the ground to the voltage reg at full throttle.
Not having to think about turning it On or Off. Though i may go threw a few regulators doing it this way, but never had a problem with it.
Ran it for a couple of years. But what i found was that running the alt full time, made my car more consistent, which, is more important the Ah .010. When you are a bracket racer.
If my 2 electric fans would come on going down the track it would slow the car down.

Run alt all the time, and charge between rounds, as the electric fans run until the eng has cooled. and pull on the battery a lot.

I be leave the 1 wire GM would be even more consistent....... but won't go down that road until i get the factory amp gauge out of the dash, and larger wire threw the fire wall bulk head(hole other story all by it's self) then Hello 80 amp alt!!!!!!!
 
Run one of these Painless Wiring. Power it through a "key on" source, then through a toggle switch. Flip the toggle switch off when you leave the water box and back on after a run.
 
For me i just had too many switches to think about. Water pump. Cooling fan, alt........
still have a manual sw for them all but the water and fan turn on and off thermostatically.

You could go that way with the Big relay BUT it may send back a hell of a voltage spike that could damage things! You would probably have to wire in a diode or something to control the spike.
I was worried about the same thing, with my voltage regulator disconnect, but there is vary little amperage there and it didn't cause any problems for me.

Just something to consider.........

EDIT Spec's said it has (1) Voltage Spike Cancelling Resistor. :thumbsup:
 
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justinp61 said:
Run one of these Painless Wiring. Power it through a "key on" source, then through a toggle switch. Flip the toggle switch off when you leave the water box and back on after a run.
Click to expand...

If you are implying to run that in the main alternator output that is a very bad idea
 
You need deep grooved pulleys. I realy don't care if it slows it down slightly. I no longer worry about having a charge or wasting time charging between rounds.
 
When I got my Daytona, no alternator - single battery, I had nothing but trouble first time out........ I installed a single wire denso and never had another problem. Lap after lap, no charger, no stress

3B9D7EAE-4A7E-4A2D-87B6-4F0721ED3466.jpeg
 
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