Is there a way to reseal a leaking intake manifold?

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jrcr_15

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Dumb question but i will still ask..

It seems that I have an oil leak coming from the back of my intake manifold by the distributor. (340 engine)

My car has a 671 Roots supercharger which really creates a tight spot in the back there. I am wondering if anybody know of a way to potentially seal that area without having to pull the supercharger and intake manifold off. Does anyone know of a particular sealer that I could potentially use? I've seen a number of products that claim to be Miracle products where you just add it to the oil and it seals up any leaks however I am skeptical for obvious reasons of these products.

I know it would be a huge ordeal to pull it all off and will do it if it comes to that I will have to do that but I was wondering if anybody knows of any thing that might be a good sealer that I could use instead of taking it all apart? Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks
 
Flex seal?


Sorry, had to do it.


Seriously, if you are talking about the China wall seal, if you can get the distributor out of the way, maybe a thick layer of rtv, after you clean it the best you can, of course.
 
Clean the area of the leak REAL GOOD with MEK, Acetone is fair, but MEK is what's best. Mix the 8802 B 1/2 (B=brush able and the 1/2 =30 hour cure.) The kit comes with a ram rod which injects the catalyst into the sealant. By pulling back the plunger all the way and inserting the ram rod into the plunger, push the catalyst in. Mixing is done by stroking the plunger in and out and turning it clockwise, until the sealant appears to be one color in the tube. (usually 40 to 50 strokes) Unscrew the plunger and use a caulking gun or a hammer handle to push the sealant out onto a clean surface (mixing board, coffee can lid) using a "disposable brush, liberally apply the sealant to the area of the leak. Let it set for at least 24 to 30 hours. (full cure) We use the product in the aviation industry, for fuel tanks. I have sealed many oil leaks on aircraft engine crank cases with it. It hardens to a flexible, rubber like substance and yes! Very much like Flex-seal. CHEMSEAL B 1/2 TANK SEALANT CS3204B1/2 | Aircraft Spruce
 
Make sure the O ring on the distributor is pliable & you might use a gasket between the distributor flange & the deck of the block.
 
how much blow by (and hence) crank case pressure do you have with it being a blown motor? how do you have the breathers set up? if there's too much pressure inside the motor it'll blow gaskets and or oil seals a plenty.
neil.
 
Yeah, with a super charger, I think you'd best pull the intake and reseal it properly. Even with a good scavenger system for your crankcase, a patch might not hold. You're welcome to give it a try though. I've used spray carb cleaner to get the area clean and dry, then used RTV black to seal everything. It's worked great for me on regular induction engines. I haven't tried it on a turbo or super charged engine though.
 
I have to agree with post #6. I think that you have a crankcase pressurization problem, with an oil leak as the symptom.
I would fix the symptom and then address the pressure problem. I used one way valves through the header collectors .
If you don't already have this, I would strongly recommend having an ignition switch and a separate starter button. Always have your engine turning over when you turn the ignition on. If you have a backfire on start up, it's better to have turning. That little pop off valve in the manifold is kinda for looks.
 
Hows oil pushing out a gasket if it can just vent pressure through the oil breather, sealed? We use some 2 part set up stuff that sounds just like: your break seal and stroke 50 times (sounds like male chastity belt!) and then you take the plunger out and thread it into the end and use it as the ram. It is for potting buried telephone splices and it dries to an almost plastic consistancy. I put some on the scuffed toes of my boots and its still there.
 
Hows oil pushing out a gasket if it can just vent pressure through the oil breather, sealed? We use some 2 part set up stuff that sounds just like: your break seal and stroke 50 times (sounds like male chastity belt!) and then you take the plunger out and thread it into the end and use it as the ram. It is for potting buried telephone splices and it dries to an almost plastic consistancy. I put some on the scuffed toes of my boots and its still there.
See my post #4 8802 can be used for electrical sealing also.
 
if you're talking about the rear China Wall, I have in the past been able to spray brake cleaner through there with a little red tube attached and then silicone a new bead across into it. Then I immediately change the oil in case the brake cleaner gets in the oil
 
I did a 318 poly that leaked in the same place. Cleaned really well with brake cleaner, and trimmed off the excess that was hanging out from first attempt. Then shop vac, to supply vacuum to crankcase, then applied silicone. Ultra grey or something similar. I figure the little vacuum provided would draw sealant into leak. Whatever the case it seemed to work.

brake cleaner, as little as what may have made it in would evaporate out before it hits operating temp.
 
2005.jpg

I'm gonna check out the stuff we use.." Q-TEL 2005 universal plugging compound" contains isocyanites..?

Chemque, Inc. - Cable Plugging and Pressurization - Universal Plugging Compound - Manufacturer of Instant Cure Doming Resins and Systems, Wood Flooring Adhesive System, Composite Utility Pole Backfill, Encapsulants, Expanding Foams, Patented 2-Component Dispenser


same style applicator. Its sort of an olive drab color when it dries. I wonder if its fuel resistant? Interesting about polyurethane in general: it is 'vastly resistant' to gasoline and 'resistant' to petroleum but 'not resistant' to motor oil? weird...

Polyurethane - Chemical Resistance
 
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