Where did the spot welds go

moparmat2000 said
I agree, Yes they will show their faces, however some do not. I find using a rotary file thinning the metal out around the edge of a spot weld gets it apart without damaging the metal you want to keep. You stick your putty knife in close to the spot wekd to put tension on it. And lots of times you can rotary file around the weld and it will pop loose on its own. Spot weld cutters are ok too. I have a Blair cutter kit, and I do use it, but can damage the metal underneath if not real careful. A rotary file can too, but you have a bit more control, and spotweld cutters cannot fit into ever spot when removing the welds. I find you need a combination of spot weld cutters, rotary files, putty knives and home made chisels etc. to get it all apart without screwing up the metal you need to keep. I agree with what you find underneath. I had to unFuck some relocated spring boxes, and fabricate my own framerail pieces after I removed them.

Agreed.

I will add that using a Blair cutter (I use this tool extensively over rotary files) is a "feel" type process, and once you get about 5-10 done, you get a feel for it.

But like you said, its more of a combination of both these methods that get the job done.

The one thing I like to tell some getting into metal work, is do a full floor first. For two reasons:

1.) It's not a difficult process, t's a long and tedious process, you'll certainly learn some patience doing one. :)
2.) It's a huge panel that, once done, offers a huge visual "bang for the buck" that leads to confidence in tackling other metal work areas.

Current project - 18 months ago

Current project - taken this morning

Completed floor work (mini-tubbed, left side seat crossmember relocated)

floor front.JPG