Clean 12v switched source that is hot cranking and running
Ok, figured out what was going on with the ACC1 wire. It is powered off the red wire in Run and off the pink wire in acc. So it is powered in both, just not from the same source. Weird.
I also found some diagrams, in a Haynes of all places. The Dodge, Plymouth, CHrysler (RWD) book has some schematics and while they aren't comprehensive, they were useful in this case.
This one is from the "Typical C Body" section and shows an ignition switch like I have been messing with where the ACC1 wire is hot on the pink wire for acc and the red wire for run.
The next one is from the "Later M body" section:
So in my car, the black "acc" wire powers the fuses in #2, #3 and #4 cavities all with 20 amp fuses. This would be the heater/AC, radio, wipers, blinkers, reverse lights and rear window defrost (if I had it). In the later M-Body above, they split the radio, wipers and turn signals off to the 18 ga ACC1 wire through two 20 amp fuses and one 5 amp fuse while the header/AC , power windows and a couple other things are on the 12 ga ACC2 wire with two 30 amp fuses and a 20 amp fuse.
So the danger would be, if I wired both the ACC1 and ACC2 wires on the switch to the black wire in my harness, and ran the radio, wipers, heater, turn signals and reverse lights with the key in the acc position, I might be pulling a bit much through the 18 ga wire that is powered in that position.
But it looks like there is an option for an additional circuit on the 18 ga ACC1 wire for fleet accessories. If this fuse is 15 amps or bigger, then the circuit protection on that wire is equal to or greater than the circuit protection on my car currently, which could imply that I should be ok.
Truth is, I have never used the acc position in my car, and doubt I would be using all the circuits even if I did.
Really looks to me like this might work. Only trick left is figuring out how to connect it.
Ok, figured out what was going on with the ACC1 wire. It is powered off the red wire in Run and off the pink wire in acc. So it is powered in both, just not from the same source. Weird.
I also found some diagrams, in a Haynes of all places. The Dodge, Plymouth, CHrysler (RWD) book has some schematics and while they aren't comprehensive, they were useful in this case.
This one is from the "Typical C Body" section and shows an ignition switch like I have been messing with where the ACC1 wire is hot on the pink wire for acc and the red wire for run.
The next one is from the "Later M body" section:
So in my car, the black "acc" wire powers the fuses in #2, #3 and #4 cavities all with 20 amp fuses. This would be the heater/AC, radio, wipers, blinkers, reverse lights and rear window defrost (if I had it). In the later M-Body above, they split the radio, wipers and turn signals off to the 18 ga ACC1 wire through two 20 amp fuses and one 5 amp fuse while the header/AC , power windows and a couple other things are on the 12 ga ACC2 wire with two 30 amp fuses and a 20 amp fuse.
So the danger would be, if I wired both the ACC1 and ACC2 wires on the switch to the black wire in my harness, and ran the radio, wipers, heater, turn signals and reverse lights with the key in the acc position, I might be pulling a bit much through the 18 ga wire that is powered in that position.
But it looks like there is an option for an additional circuit on the 18 ga ACC1 wire for fleet accessories. If this fuse is 15 amps or bigger, then the circuit protection on that wire is equal to or greater than the circuit protection on my car currently, which could imply that I should be ok.
Truth is, I have never used the acc position in my car, and doubt I would be using all the circuits even if I did.
Really looks to me like this might work. Only trick left is figuring out how to connect it.
