Master cylinders

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V8 Sam

V8 Sam

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1970 dodge dart. Manual brakes

My current one leaks ALOT it's burned some of the paint off under it..:(

So new I'm thinking of getting its new one just so it's all nice and fresh and a job off the list.carnis 10inch drum on the rear and KH 4 pots up the front (unsure if factory or a swap by a previous owner)

I am also possibly thinking of changing to rear disc when the axle is swapped to a 8.75.

So my question. What sort of master cylinder is best to use? Bearing in mind I don't want to swap it again when the rear drums get converted to disc (if they do)

I was thinking of this

www.rockauto.com/en/parts/raybestos,MC36406,master+cylinder,1836

Heard it fits direct bolt on.

Any idea peeps?

:thumbsup:
 
V8 Sam said:
1970 dodge dart. Manual brakes

My current one leaks ALOT it's burned some of the paint off under it..:(

So new I'm thinking of getting its new one just so it's all nice and fresh and a job off the list.carnis 10inch drum on the rear and KH 4 pots up the front (unsure if factory or a swap by a previous owner)

I am also possibly thinking of changing to rear disc when the axle is swapped to a 8.75.

So my question. What sort of master cylinder is best to use? Bearing in mind I don't want to swap it again when the rear drums get converted to disc (if they do)

I was thinking of this

www.rockauto.com/en/parts/raybestos,MC36406,master+cylinder,1836

Heard it fits direct bolt on.

Any idea peeps?

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Looks like it would bolt up. Not sure if the piston bore size will be suitable for your application but I'm sure others will chime in. I just changed from power brakes to manual, and I got the conversion kit from Dr. Differential. You may want to check out his site for more info.
IMAG0600.jpg
IMAG0600.jpg
IMAG0601.jpg
 
What they set you back? Don't wanna dive to deep into the bank as the current one does work just a bit leaky.

Also trying to source everything from one place as postage to the UK is extortionate

Unless Dr diff does kyb shocks too
 
V8 Sam said:
What they set you back? Don't wanna dive to deep into the bank as the current one does work just a bit leaky.

Also trying to source everything from one place as postage to the UK is extortionate

Unless Dr diff does kyb shocks too
Click to expand...
I had no less than four cast iron master cylinders and they all leaked. The adaptor from Dr. Differential will allow you to use a late model aluminum master cyl. That the Dr. Can provide or you can source locally. The adaptor is available by itself.
master-cyl.jpg
 
Why not get what is call for for your car. RA has one, as I suspect, most automotive parts stores. The trick to rear disc is to remove the residual pressure valve from the rear brake system when you are ready. it may be under the seat in the MC or a separate block downstream in the brake lines ( just don't recall)
 
V8 Sam said:
1970 dodge dart. Manual brakes

My current one leaks ALOT it's burned some of the paint off under it..:(

So new I'm thinking of getting its new one just so it's all nice and fresh and a job off the list.carnis 10inch drum on the rear and KH 4 pots up the front (unsure if factory or a swap by a previous owner)

I am also possibly thinking of changing to rear disc when the axle is swapped to a 8.75.

So my question. What sort of master cylinder is best to use? Bearing in mind I don't want to swap it again when the rear drums get converted to disc (if they do)

I was thinking of this

www.rockauto.com/en/parts/raybestos,MC36406,master+cylinder,1836

Heard it fits direct bolt on.

Any idea peeps?

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
According to the picture of it it looks like a disc/drum master. If you have manual 4 wheel drum both sides of the master should be the same size.

radiator2.jpg
 
MC36406 is favored for it's 15/16 bore, and as mentioned, direct bolt on.
Will work with both drum and disc.
As mentioned, residual valve behind the rear brake tube seat needs to be removed when going to rear disc.
Good luck .
 
inertia said:
MC36406 is favored for it's 15/16 bore, and as mentioned, direct bolt on.
Will work with both drum and disc.
As mentioned, residual valve behind the rear brake tube seat needs to be removed when going to rear disc.
Good luck .
Click to expand...

The current lines coming out of my MC I'm using now should mate straight up to the new MC right?

And just a case of removing the valve you mentioned for rear disc conversion (if I even decide im going down that route) and use the MC i mentioned above?


The KH 4pot front disc should also be fine on the MC36406 MC as well?

Thanks guys
 
If you have factory KH front disc there might be some brass fittings between the MC and the steel lines.
 
V8 Sam said:
The current lines coming out of my MC I'm using now should mate straight up to the new MC right?

And just a case of removing the valve you mentioned for rear disc conversion (if I even decide im going down that route) and use the MC i mentioned above?


The KH 4pot front disc should also be fine on the MC36406 MC as well?

Thanks guys
Click to expand...

Your current brake lines will screw directly into the new M/C, no fittings nec.
Pushrod will be correct .
The residual valve can be removed by screwing a self tapping screw into the metal "seat" of the small chamber reservoir outlet, and pulling out with plier, vice-grip, or similar.
Remove the rubber "joker/residual valve and spring".
Reinstall the metal "seat", secure by installing tube, bleed as nec.
The K/H calipers respond very well with this M/C.
I have, and will continue to use this M/C in all my conversions for it's absolute simplicity, and to maintain stock appearance .
 
Last edited:
inertia said:
Your current brake lines will screw directly into the new M/C, no fittings nec.
Pushrod will be correct .
The residual valve can be removed by screwing a self tapping screw into the metal "seat" of the small chamber reservoir outlet, and pulling out with plier, vice-grip, or similar.
Remove the rubber "joker/residual valve and spring".
Reinstall the metal "seat", secure by installing tube, bleed as nec.
The K/H calipers respond very well with this M/C.
I have, and will continue to use this M/C in all my conversions for it's absolute simplicity, and to maintain stock appearance .
Click to expand...

Perfect. I'll remember the rear disc swap if/when I come to it.

The little.rubber seal that is mentioned in that pushrod removal post, is that included with the MC36406 type MC? or do I need to purchase one myself?

If so what is it called or where can I find one?
 
V8 Sam said:
Perfect. I'll remember the rear disc swap if/when I come to it.

The little.rubber seal that is mentioned in that pushrod removal post, is that included with the MC36406 type MC? or do I need to purchase one myself?

If so what is it called or where can I find one?
Click to expand...

Should come with the new M/C .
If not, a small piece (as picture) of vacuum, rad overflow hose or similar will work. .
 
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