Does the intake fit better now? Can you snug the bolts down more?
Does the intake fit better now? Can you snug the bolts down more?
Update #2
New intake gaskets got me up to 14 lbs of vacuum. At my altitude that’s right where it should be.
The smoke is still there, but is now 100% burning oil. First start up there was a slight bit of smoke. Shut it down to take the vacuum gauge of and put the air cleaner on. Started it back up thinking I was going to take it for a drive and had much heavier blue smoke. #8 plug is pitch black, no more shiny to it.
Im almost certain it’s a bad valve seal, unless anyone can think of anything else?
Maybe I missed this early on but what are you running for a PCV system?Update 3
Discovered I have Teflon seals. Checked to make sure they were all seated properly. Everything check out. Buddy of mine who builds motors says with these types of seals you’ll always have some oil burning.
I am back to square one though. The smoke and rough idle only come on after the car warms up, maybe 20-30 minutes of driving after 10 minute warm up. I think I’m back to chasing ignition problems. I can’t get the car to accept the vacuum advance either. Hard to start when it’s hot too, like the battery is dying.
My next steps are battery, electronic distributor, and plug wires.
P.s. I’m mostly venting at this point ha ha!
Intake leak issues - I found by dumb luck that the fancy ARP intake bolts were actually bottoming out ever so slightly. The threads were running into the tops of the ports, and the TM7 and Torker intakes I tried were not as thick at the bolt holes on the inner 4 bolts as the outer 4, so the issue was worse on the inside bolts. The new RPM intake MAY have been OK, but once I realized this I ground the heads a bit and ran a tap through them. When I put the engine together with the TM7 the first time the engine didn't appear to pull oil from the bottom of the intake, but I ran two .030 gaskets on either side of the valley pan. Port alignment was good, so I just ground the bolt holes to get it all together. I thought the gaskets were sealing it up but in reality they were keeping the bolts from bottoming out, or at least bottoming out less. MAN I really did not pay attention to a few critical sealing details when I built this motor, NOOB. I was happy as a clam with the knowledge my intake would finally seal up, I cut the RPM to fit right, put it all together. And nope, she still pulls oil from the bottom, not right away, but after a few miles it starts. I know when it starts leaking because when it does the engine starts to run on when I shut it off, then the idle becomes inconsistent and the engine starts to loose its edge a bit. I resealed, this time with a .030 paper gasket instead of .015. All good for a bit, now leaking again. Even though I ground a ton off the edges of the intake to keep them off the end rails one corner appears to be touching just a bit still. Going to grind more, massage the valley pan a bit more, and try again. Ugh.
Maybe I missed this early on but what are you running for a PCV system?
I was reading an unrelated thread on Moparts and saw this interesting post:
So if you're still burning oil on #8, and the seals are ok, I'd continue to look for sucking oil into that port...
I here what your saying - the one plug deal.open system as of now. I dismissed crankcase ventilation as a culprit with having the one bad plug.
I here what your saying - the one plug deal.
I will tell you that engines that are not vented properly can and will do strange things. As $cheap and simple as it is to add it to your engine it would be one less issue to eliminate. Cant hurt and you my like the outcome.
Absolutely agree. I’m on the hunt for a cap/pcv combo that has the same hose size as my carb. I got a little distracted with the other issues.
On a positive note, reseating the valve seal and driving the car cleaned my plug up.
Looking more like a cylinder or ring issue.[/QUO
M. E. Wagner is the PCV valve you want.
I have some cast Mopar Performance covers, I might have some stock ones also.
You might want to run a compression & leak down test, you may have a broken ring or burnt valve on # 8.
A good PVC system will help, the blueish gray smoke is definitely oil. When your performed the compression/leak down test, was there much escaping around the valve stems? I know you may have covered this, but I didn't see it, I'm just spit balling trying to figure where the problem lies.
It's not uncommon for an engine that was sucking/burning lotsa oil, to accumulate a " tar " in the exhaust system that can take quite a while to burn out.
Those vehicles can smoke for several days/mi!es depending on accumuation.
Put some more miles on it.
At least another 500, you aren't going to hurt anything more.
Then, if still smoking, read the plugs