4 speed slipping out of second gear

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erafuse

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Have a 1969 Dart Swinger 340 4 speed hurst shifter slips out of second gear when I let of on it(slowing down). Could this be linkage adjustment ?
 
You need to put shifter in neatral then slide a 1/4" pin (old door hinge works good) . Has to be the right length to get it in there with the body clearence (Guessing around 2" long). Here's a good video.Not a 883 but same process. You may on need new bushings. I've heard buy the steel ones not the brass. I read that here somewhere after I bought the brass kit :BangHead:
Guess next time around for me.
Good luck.
 
Make sure all nuts are tight on shifter levers.

M19.jpg
 
I use an allen wrench to align, fits nicely when trans installed.
Make sure the mounting pad is secure too, as well as the shifter itself. A little blue loctite doesn't hurt.
You can also disconnect the rod from the shifter, put it in gear, and see how far off it is from the shifter, just to see what you can see.
 
Thanks for the info. Hoping it’s an adjustment transmission was rebuilt only 6000 miles on it. Will try some adjusting tomorrow.
 
Thanks for the info. Hoping it’s an adjustment transmission was rebuilt only 6000 miles on it. Will try some adjusting tomorrow.
I hope that I’m wrong then. Good luck with with your adjustment. If the adjustment doesn’t help pull the side cover and post the pictures of the gears.
 
Have a 1969 Dart Swinger 340 4 speed hurst shifter slips out of second gear when I let of on it(slowing down). Could this be linkage adjustment ?
Mine does too. I need to do some fiddling it sounds.
 
The two pictures in the previous posts don't show it, but there is a hole just above the shift levers, that is the alignment hole. Choose what ever size pin into and through the shifter to align the levers. As others said , make sure the mounting plate is tight, the shifter and side cover levers.
If you have the orginal Hurst Mystery shifter, there are no bushings in your shifter or side cover levers. If they are worn, I don't see why you couldn't drill them to size and use the Hurst Competition plus shifter bushings. I could be wrong on that, maybe someone else has installed them on a Mystery shifter.
 
I was having this same problem with my 4 speed that has a Gear Vendor hooked up to it with all fresh brass and whatnot. So long story short, if the 1-2 shift fork is of the old style that only have pads at the end, the middle of the shift fork does not push the gear slide all the way over the keepers on the gear, so it slides out of gear. You want to ensure use the newer style 3 pad shift forks (pic below) as a pad was added to the middle and it helps fully push the gear slide in place once shifted into 2nd. I found this little gem a few months ago and is the best pricing you'll find for shift forks. NP833 A833 NP440 TRANSMISSION 1-2 FORK Fits '64+CARS WITH BALL & SPRING INTERLOCK DODGE PLYMOUTH CHRYSLER (WT294-23)
WT294-23__36496.1570918924.jpg
 
@erafuse

First and foremost I am far from being a transmission expert. He'll I'm far from being an expert of anything, car related.
(My posts are proof of that...)
I ask more questions and for help than a sinner at confession.
Ask me about my work and Bulldogs (what mainstream America refers to as Pit Bulls) and I can honestly answer you with a hint of confidence that I know what I'm talking about) but cars, N-ah..

But ..... Repeat. But, I think I can answer this with some bravado. I had the same problem when I was in second and at high rpms and would just let go (deceleration) and coast, even if the car was going downhill and still winding, all of a sudden it would pop out of gear.
Didn't think much as it wasn't a problem. I had the shifter changed and while they were doing that they realized I was also low on fluids. So it was filled and off I went but I started to realise that after a few days of driving, especially going downhill with the car winding like crazy, I was worrying it will pop out of gear, it was not happening.... Hasn't happened all yr and there is no leak. So it was the the low level.
With that said,. Make sure your tranny level is where it's supposed to be, no leaks before you do anything else. Then check other things ....but it was as simple as that for me for that issue.
I actually tried to make it pop to be honest, I would routinely do it over and over to see maybe I wasn't going fast enough, maybe I had only driven 5-10 mins that day, not hot enough, or didn't drive long enough and try it like that. Nothing to it. It's in gear and not coming out.

Hope this helps I'd like to know if it helps you out too.
 
Of the clutching teeth,under deceleration,there are about 10 teeth that carry the load, two groups of 5 each, situated about 180* apart. After the trans has popped out a few times, those teeth can no longer hang on to the slider, because the faces are now sloped like ramps. I grind those faces back several thousands of an inch and slope them the other way. Then I do the same on ALL of the slider teeth. Now, ten different clutch teeth will come on line, and the SLIDER will hang on to them like stink on a skunk.

But the guys are right, this starts out with a linkage problem, usually the nuts having come loose. So you need to prevent that from happening again.
What usually happens is that after the nuts come loose, with continued useage, the external levers get sloppy on the studs. So now when you re-install the nuts there will forever after be a tendency for the levers to work the nuts loose over and over, and the shifter will not hang on to it's neutral gate.
The best cure I have found is to drop some blue loc-tite into the rectangular slots around the studs, before installing the nuts. It will harden in there like cement and prevent the levers from shifting on the studs.
But, I have had it happen that the locking agent wicks up between the stud and the cover, locking it into place, and now it won't shift at all. It has done this to me, even after placing the cover on the bench fork-side up. So the trick is to put something in there to prevent the wicking. I remove the internal levers and smear them with rubber O-ring lubricant, also smearing the tunnels on the external side. And wiping off the excess after re-installing them. This has worked every time.

Bottom line is, if it has popped out more than a few times, I doubt anything will stop it from happening again, until you take the trans apart and backcut the clutching teeth and sliders.
This only takes a few minits, and costs just gaskets. You might as well check all the other gears while you got it all apart.
 
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Thanks for all the info. Checked linkage all seems good one nut was loose but didn’t help. Will check fluid level.
 
When adjusting the linkage can’t seem to get the 1&2 gear linkage out past the reverse linkage ! Any ideas ? Or is it just me.
 
When adjusting the linkage can’t seem to get the 1&2 gear linkage out past the reverse linkage ! Any ideas ? Or is it just me.
Hard to tell without a pic,lol.
But I'll guess wrong parts or bent parts.
But there is one thing ;
On occasion, the reverse interlock, inside the trans, bangs into the shift mech. You can prove this by disconnecting the reverse lever, and putting the trans into neutral. Then try to shift it into reverse. If it hangs up instead of snicking into gear; loosen the cover and push it up as high as it goes, and secure it there. Then try again.
Do not confuse this hanging-up with gear-clash which is the reverse idler gear crashing into the slider or cluster. So slam it in there, with the clutch pedal depressed,a couple of times to line everything up, then look for the hang-up.
 
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When adjusting the linkage can’t seem to get the 1&2 gear linkage out past the reverse linkage ! Any ideas ? Or is it just me.


Adjust it on the transmission end. I have sausage fingers so I know I can’t get the shifter end off. It’s too tight. So I just take the end off the gear box and do it.

Also, before I put the transmission back in I mount the shifter and adjust the linkage there and it’s pretty close when it goes in. It makes the adjustment in the car that much easier.
 
When adjusting the linkage can’t seem to get the 1&2 gear linkage out past the reverse linkage ! Any ideas ? Or is it just me.

This in reference to taking the rods out of the shifter? You did say 'out'. This is NOT a reference to moving the shifter levers back and forth and the installed rods interfering with each other, right?

It has been a couple of years since I've had my shifter/levers/rods apart. IIRC, the 1-2 shift rod at the shifter does NOT come out unless the reverse rod is removed. The R shifter lever cannot be moved far enough 'out of the way' (back and forth) when connected to get the 1-2 adjuster out of the shifter.

At least, there is some interference along those lines that require something you are not fussing with to be removed before you can get to what you are working on.

Taking a pic of your shifter setup before you take it apart is a good idea...unless it's wrong to start with, and you may not KNOW that it is wrong. I didn't check the above graphic/pic somewhere else to confirm IT is correct, but it looks right to me. That in itself doesn't mean much.

Refer to the graphic/pic above to ensure your levers and rods are correctly placed on the trans AND the rods are correctly placed in the shifter levers. Make sure the correct lever is in the correct shift fork stud (one lever is bent). There are also specific PN levers required on the shift plate. The PN is stamped on 'em.

An aside somewhat: I had trouble keeping my trans in reverse. It would pop out if I did not hold the inside lever forward. I asked Brewer's about it. Having just spent some money with them, I thought it not UNfair to call them for a 'one free' advice question. They were kind enough to talk to be about the problem. They said, 'Are there any shift stop bolts in the shifter?' 'Yes', the answer. They said, 'Take 'em out.' A couple more questions from me along the line of, 'What about this...that...and the other...?' They said:

'Take 'em out.'

I did. Problem solved.

Another drawing for reference (New Features for 1964 - "A-833" Four-Speed Manual Transmission):

Shifter M20.jpg
 
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I was having this same problem with my 4 speed that has a Gear Vendor hooked up to it with all fresh brass and whatnot. So long story short, if the 1-2 shift fork is of the old style that only have pads at the end, the middle of the shift fork does not push the gear slide all the way over the keepers on the gear, so it slides out of gear. You want to ensure use the newer style 3 pad shift forks (pic below) as a pad was added to the middle and it helps fully push the gear slide in place once shifted into 2nd. I found this little gem a few months ago and is the best pricing you'll find for shift forks. NP833 A833 NP440 TRANSMISSION 1-2 FORK Fits '64+CARS WITH BALL & SPRING INTERLOCK DODGE PLYMOUTH CHRYSLER (WT294-23)
WT294-23__36496.1570918924.jpg

thanks for posting that trans link. i went on their site and they have all the parts to rebuild a 833 4speed which is GREAT!! i also created an account as all my cars are 4 speeds and one 68 is probably due for a 2nd gear synchro...
 
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