Princess Valiant
A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
which do you guys prefer and why
2 different tools. The stone hone can remove material if you use it right. It can also provide a crosshatch if done properly. The stone or bead hone just provides a crosshatch. Boring bar, rigid hone, stone hone in that order.
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It depends on how much material you need to remove. The stone type is quicker and more aggressive. I've always liked the ball hone, because it's pretty difficult to remove too much material.
That's not a engine hone, This is a engine hone. And there is the torque plates for the boxer he is making above. If your building old briggs or a engine you really don't care if it performs then use whatever is in your hand. To do it right take it and have it honed to true size. You can control the bore size and make every cylinder the same with no taper. Note two stones and two scrapers to keep it square. Once you ruin your block you'll be boring it.
Using a drill makes em look good but hows it measure top to bottom. I did what your about to do several times years back with some pretty good and bad results and I thought I was an expert. My son showed me the difference. I realized how wrong I was. Even file fitting the rings there is a new method. My son builds a lot of race motors when . I went down to take pictures of the hone I told him why. He looked at me and laughed
He asked me if your a local member near by? I asked Why? He said give it a while someone will be boring it.
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Dont you know by now, he has the best tools, the best equipment, the best shop, the best cars, the best parts inventory, and the best kid ever. His way is the ONLY way. Guy is a internet hero in his own mind...post after post of "look at this new tool" look at this car I bought out from under a guy, ect ectWhat’s your point??? All of the hones shown have a place if you know what you are doing.
Not every block needs get the plates put on and put up in the hone.
Don’t make it more complicated than it is.
FWIW, Im updating my top rings and I will be dingleberry honing it.
I’m sure I’ll be down 75 horsepower.
What’s your point??? All of the hones shown have a place if you know what you are doing.
Not every block needs get the plates put on and put up in the hone.
Don’t make it more complicated than it is.
FWIW, Im updating my top rings and I will be dingleberry honing it.
I’m sure I’ll be down 75 horsepower.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^
If you just need to prep the surface, the dingleberry wont change the bore geometry.
If the bore isn’t straight and/or round you can used the rigid hone.
Just make sure you are DAMN good with snap gauges and a mic or you have a bore gauge because with a fixed hone you can remove a good bit of material in short order.
And you need to over stroke the fixed hone so you don’t barrel shape the bore (make the center bigger than the top and bottom of the bore).