Looks like 189@.650
Slant Six Solid Roller Camshaft
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
I am in the process of setting up a slant head to use Chevy 250 I6 valves, 1.720 intake and 1.500 exhaust, have the 11/32 diameter stems.
Does the person porting your slant six head provide flow numbers? I am curious concerning what you and MOPAROFFICIAL get for flow across the lift.
Absolutely he does. If you follow the link I provided a few posts back, you can see the first head he did for me. The flow sheets are posted there.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Yep, that would have been a great head, for a turbo car. You were not necessarily making a hard choice when you sold it.
Ask him to do the intake first, then work the exhaust to where it should be. Unlike a sb head where it's easier to get ahead of the exh, the slant is the other way around. The exh does exceedingly better than you would expect.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
I am reading through the threads now, thanks,
Sho nuff.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I've never all out ported with the 1.6 something stock valve, but I did gasket match n bowl port one that I noted.
.1-50
.2-105
.3-142
.4-164
.5-170
.6-? That's all i have written down for that 1967 / head. No ex.
I do however port with the 1.7/1.44
Here's what I have written down.
....int....
.1-58....
.2-111.6
.3-152.7
.4-176
.5-182
.6-189
.65-192
They're close. I work the floor more, that's where it is. Ime. Pic of above 1.70 ported short side.
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my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Those numbers are also at 28 inches?
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Yes.
And I forgot...no, it's not Killian this time. He no longer ports cast iron. Can't blame him, really.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the link back to the 2012 Porting Post. Got through all six pages. I had forgotten all about that, knew of it back then as I had posted in it.
My how time flies.
Good Luck with the new head.
My how time flies.
Good Luck with the new head.
Thanks. I absolutely despised having to sell everything last time. I felt like I was lettin Bruce (RIP) down. We're in a better place (a little) now so I thought I would give it another go. We'll see how it turns out.
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
I ported my slant head one carbide bit that cost 25.00, I ported 3 heads with it. Messed up one, but got the second, then ported 318 heads with it. But that's backyard no numbers just probably *** Dyno lol. But its a task that if you take time and practice on bad heads or whatever you can get some where decent. Props to you guys taking the time to measure flow and cut heads in half so other can learn to save a couple of bucks.
I've actually rethought the roller cam thing and I plan to revisit the idea. I mean this is a slow project to begin with. I just repaired Vixen's 170 and she's ready for another 50 years. So it's not like I have to do an engine swap any time soon. Since I have the gear drive figured out and will be finalizing that in the next week or two, I figured "what the hell, you only live once" so I am going to start acquiring parts. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Especially regarding camshaft profiles.
Badvert65
Long Time Mopar Nut
What did you figure out on the gear drive?
I got a CAT 440 dual idler gear drive. I was going to run it as is, but yellow rose and I talked about the play the dual idler gears have back and forth and he was right. I got it all mocked up and when turning the engine back and forth, the idler gears would move probably a few degrees worth of timing before the camshaft would turn, so that was unacceptable. So I decided to modify the set and convert it to a single, fixed idler gear drive. I am going to drill a 3/8 hole through the large idler gear's pinion. Then assemble the three gears and jack them together with a .003 feeler gauge between them. Then I'm going to use the pinion as a guide and drill a 5/16 hole through the front of the block in the timing cover area, tap the hole to 3/8-24 and bolt the pinion and gear down to the block. There' no reason why that shouldn't work. I'm going to find out anyway.
Oh and the cam gears between the 440 and slant six and also both gears are marked differently. I figured out though, that if the crank gear is flipped over, upside down that the gear alignment becomes just about perfect. Then all I did was remark both gears. You can actually use the dual idler system as is if you want, but the block has to be relieved on the passenger's side so the idler gears align evenly. But even though I did relieve the block there and made it fit good, I still decided to make it a fixed single idler system. The worst that can happen is it tears up and I start over. I don't think that'll happen though, because there'll be very little lateral force on the idler gear and pinion.
Here's the thread where I posted pictures.
Big Block Gear Drive On A Slant?
Notice the one picture where the small idler gear is out of alignment. That's going to be eliminated, since the only gear I'll be using is the larger one on the other side.
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