What 15" aluminum wheels are you guys running over the 11.75" rotors?

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CzechItOut

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What 15" aluminum wheels are you guys running over the 11.75" rotors (disc-o-tech on this sucka).
currently i'm rolling on balck steelies 15" by 7". one is bent, and i'd like to get some alloys on a budget. 15's if possible.
I've been toying with the idea of jeep factory 15" by 7". I'm figuring i'll need at least a 1' spacer.
Has any body done this with success?
Any other wheel choice tips would be helpful. The boneyards are slim. Swap meets are almost non-existant this year, so I'm surfing the web for local stuff.
Thanks.
 
The issue with factory Jeep aluminum wheels is twofold:
The deep backspace (4.5" if I remember correctly) on 15x8s hit the rear springs if in the stock location, as you said, you'll need wheel spacers. If you've got a spring relocation kit on the car, you may be good. The 15x7s MAY clear, but I can't verify at the moment.
On the front, the centerbore doesn't clear the hub- it tapers down as it nears the outside of the wheel and doesn't allow the wheel to fully seat against the rotor face. You need to have the wheel bored all the way through.
Longer studs may also be needed.
 
I just went and picked up a single 15 x 7 jeep alloy rim (on the cheap). I set it on top of a spare front rotor with a 1.5" wood block spacer. It clears the grease cap ever so slightly. Might need to sand a couple 32nds off the center cap barbs. I still have to mock it up to the car.
 
On the Valiant Patrol car I run the 15x7 police wheels which clear fine. I've also found that the Ford Crown Vic (mesh 16x7)/Lincoln LSC (finned 16x7) wheels from late '80's-early 90's pictured here clear as well. They are the one or two types of newer car wheels showing up in junk yards around here that have a more chrysler like offset compared to most wheels of late 90's forward which are essentially flat faced and require a spacer. Any of the factory Chrysler aluminum RWD wheels from the early to mid 80's (15x7's pictured) also clear (see pic) but can be harder to find.

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To answer your other question regarding Late model Challenger/Charger wheels. On most "A" body cars an 18" diameter wheel is about the max diameter you can run on the front and clear the body structure. And to run those you need an very low profile tire. Many of the new Challenger/Charger wheels are 20's or 22's and you'd have a difficult time finding a low enough profile tire to clear. With spacers/adapters you can certainly bolt them on however. If you look you'll find a "show your wheel and tire" thread with dozens?, hundreds?, of pics.
 
Anybody have success with modern charger / challenger wheels going onto vintage mopars?
The late model challenger and charger wheels are NOT the same pattern as the classic mopars ! The bolt circle is metric, off from the old 4 1/2 by .030. It will bolt on, but it bends the studs, and you have a real risk of the wheel working loose, or breaking the studs. The wheel falls off under either problem.
If you want big wheels from a modern car, shop mustangs.
 
On the Valiant Patrol car I run the 15x7 police wheels which clear fine. I've also found that the Ford Crown Vic (mesh 16x7)/Lincoln LSC (finned 16x7) wheels from late '80's-early 90's pictured here clear as well. They are the one or two types of newer car wheels showing up in junk yards around here that have a more chrysler like offset compared to most wheels of late 90's forward which are essentially flat faced and require a spacer. Any of the factory Chrysler aluminum RWD wheels from the early to mid 80's (15x7's pictured) also clear (see pic) but can be harder to find.

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Those are some decent options. Did you have to bore out thr centers of the ford wheels? I thought ford center bores were 70.5mm and Mopar is 71.5mm.
 
The late model challenger and charger wheels are NOT the same pattern as the classic mopars ! The bolt circle is metric, off from the old 4 1/2 by .030. It will bolt on, but it bends the studs, and you have a real risk of the wheel working loose, or breaking the studs. The wheel falls off under either problem.
If you want big wheels from a modern car, shop mustangs.
I see now yeah charger challenger is 115mm circle. I wonder if there is an adaptor / spacer. I'll also have to look at backspacing. Do some of the base challengers come with 17's?
 
BTW I've got a 67 Barracuda fastback work in progress. Anyone with "different" wheel and tire packages go ahead and post them here. I gotta search the
To answer your other question regarding Late model Challenger/Charger wheels. On most "A" body cars an 18" diameter wheel is about the max diameter you can run on the front and clear the body structure. And to run those you need an very low profile tire. Many of the new Challenger/Charger wheels are 20's or 22's and you'd have a difficult time finding a low enough profile tire to clear. With spacers/adapters you can certainly bolt them on however. If you look you'll find a "show your wheel and tire" thread with dozens?, hundreds?, of pics.
Thanks, I'll head over to the "show you wheel and tire" thread now. Appreciate the heads up.
 
@33IMP - Good to know. I've seen them advertised as 5x115mm but had assumed they were simply being erroneously rounded up from 114.3.

@CzechItOut - Yes ID of Ford wheels need to be opened up a bit.
 
I see now yeah charger challenger is 115mm circle. I wonder if there is an adaptor / spacer. I'll also have to look at backspacing. Do some of the base challengers come with 17's?
@33IMP - Good to know. I've seen them advertised as 5x115mm but had assumed they were simply being erroneously rounded up from 114.3.

@CzechItOut - Yes ID of Ford wheels need to be opened up a bit.
I found wheel adapters on Google for 115mm to 4.5, but they seem too thick. They MIGHT work with the late model wheels because of the large backspace typical of modern wheels. The one's I found were $50 each for 1.5 thick, and $70 each for custom built.
And yes, early v6 chargers used 16s, later v6s were 17 and 18.
 
I mounted a tire to a jeep grizzly wheel and screwed a 1.5" wood spacer to it and slipped over the studs for a mock up. I wanted to see how this would look. I've got 1-3/4" space to the leaf spring in the rear and was to far out on the outside as well. I think 1/2" to 3/4" spacer in the rear would be best.
Now for the front the 1.5" spacer is needed to clear the hub grease cap to th inside of the wheel. It clears on the inside bell area of the wheel to the brake caliper. The tire i put on is a little taller than the ones i would transfer over for road use. It appears as though it will clear. In fairness the previous owner trimmed some clearance on the top inner lips of the fenders. Looks about 3/8 - 1/2" missing.
Still unsure if I will move forward and get 3 more wheels. Get a different wheel to taste test. Or what?
Any how check the pics and send opinions.
Thanks.

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I think that's a good looking wheel for that car. Bonus if you can obtain them inexpensively. Is that the Jeep 15x7 you referred to in your first post?
 
I'm running the Cordoba Aluminum rims (see last picture on post#5). I have run OEM 15 x 6.5 Rallyes and OEM 15 x 7 Honeycomb wheels. I don't like spacers, I'd rather wait and get what I want.
 
I'm running the Cordoba Aluminum rims (see last picture on post#5). I have run OEM 15 x 6.5 Rallyes and OEM 15 x 7 Honeycomb wheels. I don't like spacers, I'd rather wait and get what I want.
Good point with the spacers. That is the biggest hang up I have with the whole deal.
If you wouldn't mind, please post what ever pictures you can here of the wheels on the car. That would help me visualize different looks.
Thanks.
 
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