TTI header woes

-
Scat

Scat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2016
Messages
69
Reaction score
24
Location
La Crosse Wi
Anyone else have issues with the header hitting the brake proportioning valve? I bought raw headers since I knew nothing ever fits right. Ending up redoing the rear driver side upper tube. Now everything has clearance. 73 Duster swap
17787765-6AF3-4357-AF3D-83F0716E29AF.jpeg
99EF68D4-A66E-469D-985E-E1593FB9D7C5.jpeg
76F59E34-31D1-4A68-B093-63D2CB8E9B6D.jpeg
image.jpg
 
What a shame and they're supposed to be the best I think you need to send TTI your findings and make them the correct jig!!!
 
Scat said:
Anyone else have issues with the header hitting the brake proportioning valve? I bought raw headers since I knew nothing ever fits right. Ending up redoing the rear driver side upper tube. Now everything has clearance. 73 Duster swapView attachment 1715602854View attachment 1715602855 View attachment 1715602856View attachment 1715602857
Click to expand...
Did you tell tti you were stuffing a newer hemi in there before ordering I bought my tti headers and put them in with the original 360 those were tight but fit very well
 
I had the same problem years ago. They hit there and they also try to share the same space with the left torsion bar. At the start of my build, I refused to dent/smash the headers in to make them fit. I had to do that sort of stuff when I was a kid, and put up with rattles, chafing, etc. I ended up getting an AlterKtion front suspension with the TTIs that are made for that front end and now it all fits very nicely. I really did want to keep my car itself very stock and uncut, but I through that idea out the window because a real clean build was my priority. BTW, TTI makes some nice products but they're far from perfect. When they get a complaint (I did so) their standard response seems to be "gee, we haven't heard that complaint from our other customers". BS!
 
It's a real shame companies can make headers that fit Ford, GM, AMC, and a host of others with no fitment issues, but no one can do it for Mopar. Some fit good, some don't. And that's true even buying the "best".
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's a real shame companies can make headers that fit Ford, GM, AMC, and a host of others with no fitment issues, but no one can do it for Mopar. Some fit good, some don't. And that's true even buying the "best".
Click to expand...

Is it the headers or inconsistancies from Mopar ? My ragtop rear end is off by 1/4". I know thats not header related but who knows about the front of the car ?
 
Kendog 170 said:
Is it the headers or inconsistancies from Mopar ? My ragtop rear end is off by 1/4". I know thats not header related but who knows about the front of the car ?
Click to expand...
With the small block i had in the car before hand, I had a set of dougs headers on it. Didnt end have to look twice they slid in and not a single hammer mark at all to cleanace anything. I see hooker is making headers now for B and E body hemi swaps. be nice to know if they are comparable to the tti crap i had to deal with.
 
I haven't seen the Doug's headers, but the Hookers I've seen are kind of a mid-length header, whereas the TTIs are a full length. Since I went to the aftermarket front suspension, the TTI made for it fit phenominal. I truly think the stock suspension
in an A body makes it VERY difficult to build headers for, especially if you go with a 1 3/4" or 2".
 
Scat said:
Anyone else have issues with the header hitting the brake proportioning valve? I bought raw headers since I knew nothing ever fits right. Ending up redoing the rear driver side upper tube. Now everything has clearance. 73 Duster swapView attachment 1715602854View attachment 1715602855 View attachment 1715602856View attachment 1715602857
Click to expand...

Are you really complaining about the prop valve hitting and you're putting in a gen 3 Hemi in a 73 Duster? Would it not have been easier to move the prop valve.
 
LO23M8B said:
Are you really complaining about the prop valve hitting and you're putting in a gen 3 Hemi in a 73 Duster? Would it not have been easier to move the prop valve.
Click to expand...

why advertise something that fits when it doesn’t? I didn’t mention I had to clearance it for the motor mount in the front driver side where header hit the mounting bolt on the block, or the driverside torsion bar hit the header as well. When you pay 700 for a set of raw headers you think you’d get something that fits.
 
While I agree that TTI headers usually fit far better than any of their competitors, every thing from the car to the headers is made by people and thus subject to tolerance stack in one degree or another. There was a time when everything was basically generic and you had to make everything fit. Yes, it sucks to pay $1000 for headers and then have problems but you are putting a modern engine in a classic car and there is no way any manufacturer can make a part such as headers that is going to fit without issue 100% of the time.
 
HotRodding;
101; if it almost fits, just lube it.
102; if it doesn't quite almost fit, hit it harder.
103; if there's no way in hell it's gonna fit, sit down, have a beer; A lil Alcohol makes the pain go away.
104; it will fit, eventually, just keep after it.
105; sleep on it; you can't think straight when everything hurts.
106; get a buddy to hold your torch while you slide in there
107; phone a friend;for a second opinion
108; never ever consult a professional, they don't knowchit.
109; I'm building this for me; the workmanship doesn't have to be pretty. But since I'll be the testpilot, it just better hang together, or the wife will kill me.
 
Words of wisdom from 70chall440. You are amazing, you trash a company that only supports our cars when you are putting a new engine that didn't exist until a few years ago into a car that was built almost 50 years ago. And you blame them because their product, that they make for our cars doesn't perfectly fit your swap ?? You have not been to their plant, obviously. They take great pains in using the most expensive measuring equipment to plot the fit on a "average American" built car from the time, with a transplanted new Generation engine not designed for that car but made to fit using adapted parts. How perfect were these cars when they were new ? They didn't get to take a New 73 Duster with a factory 5.7 and get to make them for it. They can't "guarantee perfect fit" as the cars are not perfect and neither are we. How precisely did you measure the offset from centerline and level from side to side ? Use a jig or a tape or or anything ?? I like the positive statement:
"Anyone else have issues with the header hitting the brake proportioning valve? I bought raw headers since "I knew nothing ever fits right." It sounds like "perfect fit" is not your first rodeo. And how many Gen III into 73 A-body conversions do you think that there are ?
Hope the rest of your project goes "perfect."
Be happy TTI is around to support Mopars.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Is it the headers or inconsistancies from Mopar ? My ragtop rear end is off by 1/4". I know thats not header related but who knows about the front of the car ?
Click to expand...

I think it's the header companies. Lemmie sorta answer that by askin you this. Do you really and I mean REALLY think that all the other domestic makes were made THAT much better and THAT much more consistent than our Mopars? I sure don't. Yet, they all have parts.....not just headers, that fit and function better on their cars than we do on ours and our parts cost more. Kinda backwards ain't it?
 
Probably a little bit of everything I guess . I wasn't saying, just asking . Over the years things got a little better with aftermarket parts (AMD) and others but I've always had Mopars and it's a ***** tying to get good stuff without paying through the nose .I called AMD and asked if they were going to come out with 68 Dart fenders when I was doing my hardtop. They said no. 6 months after painstaking getting my fenders finished they released them.:BangHead: At least I got a pair for my Ragtop.
 
Scat said:
Anyone else have issues with the header hitting the brake proportioning valve? I bought raw headers since I knew nothing ever fits right. Ending up redoing the rear driver side upper tube. Now everything has clearance. 73 Duster swapView attachment 1715602854View attachment 1715602855 View attachment 1715602856View attachment 1715602857
Click to expand...
I used these hooker black heart shorties to fit jeep grand Cherokee. I don't have torsion bars anymore, but they look like would work on torsion bar suspension.
Scat said:
Anyone else have issues with the header hitting the brake proportioning valve? I bought raw headers since I knew nothing ever fits right. Ending up redoing the rear driver side upper tube. Now everything has clearance. 73 Duster swapView attachment 1715602854View attachment 1715602855 View attachment 1715602856View attachment 1715602857
Click to expand...
I used Hooker black heart shorty, drivers side requires trimming the column.
Hooker header.jpeg
.
 
I have experience with TTI 1 3/4, and the 2 inch primary tube headers into a 73 Scamp and 74 Swinger. I had the same issue with the prop valve with the 1 3/4 in the Scamp. Simply unbolted the valve a "convinced" it to slide back for the needed clearance. No other issues. On the Swinger, the 2 inchers fit almost perfectly. The collector on the pass side was VERY close to the trans pan bump out on the 727. There would have been room to move the tubes and collector over about 3/4 of an inch towards the T bar. TTI states that those headers are not meant for that platform with 727. I called them, not to complain, but rather, give them useful info on my findings. They appreciated it very much. Not sure if changes were made, at least I tried. I can understand some frustration. I get it. BUT, when I spend that money, I'm NOT cutting the header. It WILL fit when I'm done.
 
if moving the proportioning valve was your biggest problem then you were lucky. these swaps are easy to a point but do take some creative thinking. No way on gods green earth would i cut up $800 dollar headers. I just moved my proportioning valve, solved. I don't want to pick a fight but i don't think you saw the forest behind the tree. I am like 408 swinger, i made adjustments. I would suggest to put some heat wrap around the valve to stop any unwanted heat messing with the brakes.
 
I removed mine and went with an aftermarket adjustable up by the master cylinder. I am good. but thank you!!
 
Unrelated but related, I had an issue with tti coated headers, they started to rust.
I read through the warranty and I had no interest in r&r, be out of a car, box up, send back, etc. Especially because 2 of the bolts are a royal pain.
Sent them an email stating that, adding I don't want anything but for them to offer a better coating on the poly headers for the next customer, as they didn't offer the same coating as bb headers.
2 weeks later I received an email, they're sending me new headers with their top of the line coating. I called to buy new gaskets, as it's a 318 poly and not a common gasket. Their reply, we're sending you everything, headers, gaskets, bolts, enjoy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top