And so it starts... 340 build
Next you install the cam and degree it in.
(No pictures, sorry, but there’s the cam card.)
The cam is a Comp XE285HL with a request phoned in to move the centerline (LAS) from a 110 to a 108. It offers a little more bottom end torque while peaking a slight bit earlier in hp up top.
Pictured is the correct way the cam retaining plate is to be installed. Also, the cylinder head I was going to use (reuse) and the valve cover freshly painted orange along with the OE cast iron & TQ combo. The cylinder head I wanted to address some with a minor milling and valve job. (A machinists job I do not have the equipment for. Or room for it “Yet!”) I also wanted to do a little bowl work myself as well as spring pad work for the upgraded springs. I can do this at home. Not an issue.
Anyways... once you degree your cam in, it should have the fuel pump eccentric on the timing chain ready to install the front cover, water pump and pullies. Alternator not actually needed at this time.
Next you install the cam and degree it in.
(No pictures, sorry, but there’s the cam card.)
The cam is a Comp XE285HL with a request phoned in to move the centerline (LAS) from a 110 to a 108. It offers a little more bottom end torque while peaking a slight bit earlier in hp up top.
Pictured is the correct way the cam retaining plate is to be installed. Also, the cylinder head I was going to use (reuse) and the valve cover freshly painted orange along with the OE cast iron & TQ combo. The cylinder head I wanted to address some with a minor milling and valve job. (A machinists job I do not have the equipment for. Or room for it “Yet!”) I also wanted to do a little bowl work myself as well as spring pad work for the upgraded springs. I can do this at home. Not an issue.
Anyways... once you degree your cam in, it should have the fuel pump eccentric on the timing chain ready to install the front cover, water pump and pullies. Alternator not actually needed at this time.