Yes, the ralley gauges were optional on the Cudas, but standard on the Challenger R/T's
Pic of a 70 Cuda 340 4-speed I have.
Also to the OP I have a good cuda roof if you decide to fix the car.
WIW '72 340 'CUDA
- Thread starter mopardug
- Start date
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Pic of a 70 Cuda 340 4-speed I have.
Also to the OP I have a good cuda roof if you decide to fix the car.
Here's a couple more pics. I plan on trying to authenticate the vin on the 833 & 340 this weekend. The door matches the dash. Where would the other #'s be?
I haven't drank enough in quite some time to think that she's only 16K on her. My 28K mile Demon is in much better shape.
I'm sorry, but sometimes I've got the memory of a crack *****...how do I get the back seat bottom out again?
My preference would be to sell her complete and hope someone likes the 'challenge'. Hell, my stupid Demon could use the drivetrain if I were to part her.
I haven't drank enough in quite some time to think that she's only 16K on her. My 28K mile Demon is in much better shape.
I'm sorry, but sometimes I've got the memory of a crack *****...how do I get the back seat bottom out again?
My preference would be to sell her complete and hope someone likes the 'challenge'. Hell, my stupid Demon could use the drivetrain if I were to part her.
Buy it and get it mechanically sound. Why restore it? Drive it as a natural rat rod with the “Rot Rod” painted on the quarters.
Just a suggestion. LOL
Just a suggestion. LOL
E body's are out of most peoples price range these days. Im getting ready to start a restoration on a 74 im cloning to a 71. I got the car in trade for doing a bunch of work for a guy on his 71 340 duster. Been gathering parts I need for it for the past 15 years. Looking at the prices of E body parts now I wouldn't do it. Im just glad I held on to the car all these years.
Here is a pic. I have all the parts for it. It was complete with the exception of the bucket seats.
Good luck with the cuda. Hopefully it finds a good home and does not get parted.
Here is a pic. I have all the parts for it. It was complete with the exception of the bucket seats.
Good luck with the cuda. Hopefully it finds a good home and does not get parted.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Cowl # is on the top drivers side. You may have to wipe it with a wet rag to find it. Radiator support # is on the drivers side also, and should be on the back side of the support facing the radiator. There are no numbers in the trunk or package tray. Push in on the bottom of the back seat, and then pull up. You will need a ratchet, extension and some sockets to get the back of the back seat out. Been a minute, but I think it's either a 7/16 or 1/2 " socket. If you're looking for the build sheet, take enough tools to get the plastic backs off of the bucket seats. Sometimes they stuck them in the springs there. They usually fare much better than the ones in the back of the back seat. That car most likely came with the standard dash, because it only has 2 speed wipers. Rallye dash would have had a 3 speed wiper motor. $5K would be top dollar for me on that car, even if it was #'s matching. I sold a roller 74 Cuda 360 last year with the numbers matching motor, triple black with a NICE body for $9K. It needed zero sheet metal replaced. Kinda wish I hadn't, but I needed the $$$. 
Also, if it's a numbers matching car, it needs to be saved. They make every piece to restore the sheet metal on an E body. It ain't the 80's anymore, and somewhere, somebody is wanting a real 340, 4spd, yellow 340 Cuda like he had in high school. That guy may not care if he gets upside down in its cost. My 2 cents!
Yup. Some of them babyboomers are very well off, too.
moper
Well-Known Member
I don’t see the return on investment for a base model 340 ‘72. I might do the car for myself, but that’s assuming a lot of capability and parts connections. It’s rough, with a capital R. Cool, I miss my ‘74, but reality is the buyer market for these cars is getting smaller every day and the resto parts will dry up within a few years.
It will sell in a heartbeat. Sell it to graveyard cars.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
There's only one way I would attempt a resto on a car in this condition.
http://www.dynacornclassicbodies.com/1970-dodge-challenger-coupe/
I realize that this is for a Challenger, but I read a while back that they had a Barracuda coming soon. Might be worth a phone call to see if it's still a "go" and what their timeline is.
I know it's pricey- but when you add up all the individual pieces this car is going to need, and the time, materials, and other miscellania that would be required to get it to this stage, it ain't such a bad deal after all. After all the metal replacement it's going to need, there probably wouldn't be any body numbers left- and since it will always be an incompletely documented car anyways, a Dynacorn body may be a good selling point- it eliminates the chance of hidden dicey unibody work in the buyer's eyes.
Otherwise, push it back into the shipping container for another 10 years until we get to the point of being able to 3D print a new shell...
Please excuse my cynicism, but I'm from Wisconsin and I know what an ordeal rust on this scale is.
http://www.dynacornclassicbodies.com/1970-dodge-challenger-coupe/
I realize that this is for a Challenger, but I read a while back that they had a Barracuda coming soon. Might be worth a phone call to see if it's still a "go" and what their timeline is.
I know it's pricey- but when you add up all the individual pieces this car is going to need, and the time, materials, and other miscellania that would be required to get it to this stage, it ain't such a bad deal after all. After all the metal replacement it's going to need, there probably wouldn't be any body numbers left- and since it will always be an incompletely documented car anyways, a Dynacorn body may be a good selling point- it eliminates the chance of hidden dicey unibody work in the buyer's eyes.
Otherwise, push it back into the shipping container for another 10 years until we get to the point of being able to 3D print a new shell...
Please excuse my cynicism, but I'm from Wisconsin and I know what an ordeal rust on this scale is.
I've been talking to the PO, and she believes that it's originally out of Frankfort, Kentucky, and that she was the second owner.
I'm going to pop the plugs this weekend and see if she'll turn over. What does everybody suggest to put in the cylinders before I try to turn her over?
I'm going to pop the plugs this weekend and see if she'll turn over. What does everybody suggest to put in the cylinders before I try to turn her over?
yeah, they did that alot with AAR cuda's.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
If it's locked, you're probably not going to have much luck on the same day. You may need to soak it and come back in a few days after it's had time to soak in... or even repeated applications over the course of a couple weeks depending how bad it is.
There's lots of "favorite" brews for soaking the cylinders- Kroil/PB Blaster, Marvel Mystery oil, kerosene/ATF mix, etc. The common denominator is that they need time. And when you try, work it back and forth with a breaker bar, gradually increasing the distance you wiggle it. And don't force it too hard CCW, you'll just loosen the crank bolt.
R4Sedan
Larry
I wouldn't restore it. Unless it has some kind of sentimental value. Sell it.
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
................................
If you're into cars to make money...
You shouldn't be into cars.
I have to admit, I have seen one that rusty get back on the road.
The owner sold drivetrain, including the K-member. He pulled the interior, welded and patched with square tubing and sheet metal he shaped (more or less), then bolted it to a 4-wheel drive frame with 30+” tires and painted it with spray cans.
One ugly SOB, but at the coast in the 80’s, it got lots of attention. Got mad when I asked him if I could have the parts he took off.
The owner sold drivetrain, including the K-member. He pulled the interior, welded and patched with square tubing and sheet metal he shaped (more or less), then bolted it to a 4-wheel drive frame with 30+” tires and painted it with spray cans.
One ugly SOB, but at the coast in the 80’s, it got lots of attention. Got mad when I asked him if I could have the parts he took off.
I have to admit, I have seen one that rusty get back on the road.
The owner sold drivetrain, including the K-member. He pulled the interior, welded and patched with square tubing and sheet metal he shaped (more or less), then bolted it to a 4-wheel drive frame with 30+” tires and painted it with spray cans.
One ugly SOB, but at the coast in the 80’s, it got lots of attention. Got mad when I asked him if I could have the parts he took off.
I've seen worse. I have a friend who bought a 70 Super Bee, 383, 4 speed Ramcharger hood car. Numbers matching, all original drive train. That's where the good stuff stops. LOL Everybody.......and I mean EVERYBODY told him save the drive train, and junk the rest. I have to admit......it was THAT BAD. There wasn't a panel in the car that wasn't rusted through. But he persevered. He fixed that car and made it gorgeous. What did he do then? Built a 440 Six Barrel cause the 383 just wasn't enough. LOL It's a beautiful car. Now. LOL
moper
Well-Known Member
I’ve been into cars since before I could drive. My yards full of “someday “ financial black hole projects. Not giving advice based on emotions is a sure way to a yard like mine. A yard I’m ok with, but ultimately will never be worth anything but to me, a professional Mopar parts dealer, or the scrapper.
As long as YOU like them, what the hell difference does it make?
moper
Well-Known Member
Agreed. But the post was what “I” think the OP should do. If it was up to me I’d keep it, hell I might have bought it if it was local and my price range. But that’s not what was asked. Or at least how I understood what was asked anyway.
Good morning all! I've got another stupid question for you. Right now she's got 14 inch wheels on her, I've got some 235 75 15 on some beater Cragar Wheels. Would they fit?
moper
Well-Known Member
If the offset and bolt pattern is right they should fit the back. They should fit the front but I’m not sure about turning radius vs inner fenders
gzig5
Well-Known Member
It will fit in back no problem if the wheel offset is reasonable, but that is a tall tire. You may need to crank up the front end with the torsion bars to get fender clearance. I run 255/60-15 on my 73 Cuda without issue, but it is getting close on the front of the opening.
If it is numbers matching it probably is worth fixing. I've had to put a lot of new sheet metal into mine due to hidden issues and to speed up the work, but it will be a solid car when done, and I'm not interested in selling it. I used the one piece Dynacorn rear section that goes from the rear floor pan to the bumper, all in one piece with the frame rails on it already. Saved a ton of labor and was cheaper than the individual parts from AMD. If you shop around you can still find decent orginal fender and stuff for reasonable money. Rather put $35k into the Cuda it than buy a used modern Challenger or Rustang to tear around in.
Yunick13
2 Time FABO NASCAR champ 2023 FABO NHRA champ
If I was interested in restoring it, I'd strip it and get a better assessment of the condition. If it's worse than what you think it is,and don't to fix it, you've already done the stripping.
If you're intersted in selling it, leave it together.
If you're intersted in selling it, leave it together.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I didn't see anybody else ask this. Can you do the rust repair and body work/paint yourself? If not, sell it. If you have to pay someone else for that you will likely have close to $80-90K in it when finished.
Gettin it "runnin and drivin" could have benefits. The car will be seen and people will want it. Best advertising ever.
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