Changing 67 Fastback rear valance

Hi Steve, if going that route, I would section it in with either an overlap or buttweld at the spot welds that run across that hold the trunk floor to the valance. You can hide it nicely with tastefully done seam sealer there, and no body filler needed and the bumper will hide it. Plus you wont have to mess with spot welds on the lock latch support, or the bumper supports in the trunk.

You dont really have to remove the taillight housing "buckets" sheetmetal to swap the whole pan, but since you dont need to go that far into the car anyways, then I understand doing the non stock seam. If mine wasnt as bad all around as it is, I would be putting a non stock seam right on that trunk floor spot weld line.

If you want, follow along on my build thread. Eventually I will get to the point where I will replace the entire valance after I finish the trunk floor install.

You mentioned keeping focus. I can understand that. It's a lot of work. How I keep focused is I only worry about what I am dealing with currently. As in the trunk floor. Once that's done, then onto the valance.

I must confess, I work commercial aviation sheetmetal repair for a living, and yet thoroughly enjoy working on automotive sheetmetal as a hobby to blow off steam. Compared to dealing with drilling precision holes, rivets, and aluminum, i find the automotive stuff crude in comparison yet oddly satisfying.