76 duster clutch pedal will come up 2-3 inches off the ground but not all the way
There you go OP;
The fork has to come to the front of the window. Unless you can buy a taller fork-pivot, shimming will be required.
There are three places you can shim,namely the fork pivot, the TO bearing and I guess you could shim between the crank and the flywheel. The easiest is the one mentioned above.
After the fork is in the correct position, and the freeplay has been set, then you can install a stiffer anti-rattle spring on the fork, which will then push the pedal up.
BTW;
Dave makes a good point
BTW, It's the OC spring that pulls the peddle up to the top with a B&B clutch not the PP. When pushing the peddle down the spring assists in the effort. So the spring works in both directions depending on which side if "center" it's on.
I installed a much lighter OC-spring in place of the factory one. The stiffer spring below sends the pedal up, to a point, and then the upper spring takes over, and is just enough to park the pedal at the top to make a satisfying thunk.
I also run the freeplay on the minimum, and adjust it "more often". You only need enough freeplay to keep the TO bearing off the fingers. If the TO bearing was to spin continuously, it might not last as long as the disc, making extra work for you. But the factory 1" spec is enough to compensate for many thousands of miles of disc-wear. For a seasonal street-car, this could be several years worth, so IMO, at the factory spec,you are always stabbing that pedal further than you really need to.......
Another important thing Dave mentions is;
Caution, you may need to make sure you are not driving the fingers into the disc or bending them due to over adjusting.
You will have to learn where the clutch is adequately released, and DO NOT push the pedal much further. You may want to install a limiter somewhere, often a block/stopper, under the pedal.
Interesting tidbit;
Where the pedal parks kindof depends on the length of your arms; don't laugh.... If you have short arms, you will move the seat up to be able to control your steering. If you also have long legs, your knees will be very bent, making controlled engagement, in certain situations, difficult. If this happens to you, you will be wanting; either
1) a lower pedal parking position, to straighten out your leg some. or
2) The alternative is to bring the column back as far as it goes, then move the seat back, and finally get a deeper dish steering wheel, to bring it closer to your chest.
Just remember, studies have shown that running at a brickwall, at ~12 mph,a human being cannot prevent intimate contact between his face and the wall. I tried it when I was a teenager, and I didn't hit no 12 mph before it was very apparent that it would take a very strong man to stop himself at the full 12. Your classic car has no airbag and no crumple zone, and no decent seat belt. The closer that steering wheel is to your chest, IDK.......
Lucky for me; I fit in my 68 Barracuda just about right, with just a small-diameter big fat foamed steering wheel. I am fully aware that a sudden-stop is almost guaranteed to re-arrange my facial features. A lil off-track, I know,but.......
Happy HotRodding