j par
Well-hung Member
I need some B3 racing stickers... To stick on my Mr gasket valve covers....
Trick Flow SBM Heads
- Thread starter A56
- Start date
-
This looks like a good test to me.Aren't those trickflows basically untested?......
j par
Well-hung Member
I agree but you read on further or where he had bigger headers for the trickflows...
And I've heard a few people say the advantage of speedmasters over Edelbrocks was they had a bigger better flowing exhaust port...
mopar65
Well-Known Member
Hey Mike I finally got my 360 magnum to the track with the trickflows I bought off you.
I would think if you want to see benefits cost and performance wise I would want to see lift over .600 minimum as we have to keep in mind how much lift we lose. But hey it’s your money.
It may hurt sometimes, but you always speak the truth.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
the buddy of mine who has trickflows and has tested them at the track has a 264/268 solid that is 615/621( hughes)
Big tube headers, 950, has tried 2 different single planes.
Its 12+ compression, 3050 ish weight with driver. Best so far 10.55 at 126 ish
8 inch vert
He has had eddie motors, Indy head motors and W8 motors in the past, and also has some airwolfs that are replacing the trickflows to test the next time out. Already has trickflows off the motor
I would love to have this 100.00 investment back. It’s the cam that ran 6.54 in my sons stock crank 360 and broke a lifter
Not quite apples to apples, but close.... My Barracuda has a very similar setup but with ported Edelbrocks:
3250lbs, 727, same cam (Hughes 264-268), 13:1 compression
750carb, Victor intake, 8" converter, 1 3/4 headers.
Best of 10.19 @ 130.5mph
j par
Well-hung Member
600-630 lbs. Of open pressure...??..
LOL, holy crap, YES PLEASE!! If this was the case I would be all over that like white on rice, on a paper plate, in a glass of milk in a snow storm...(quote from Major Payne).
j par
Well-hung Member
So I assume trickflows would be about a 10K investment at this point...
Assuming you get your half second bump to 9.69... now you're consistently below 10 seconds and of course your recertification of everything every two years roll cage etc.... Added stress to everything..
I couldn't afford to race at the mid 11 second level let alone below 10 seconds...
I have said this before and truly believe it to be the best option and nearly the only route if, IF!, you are intending to build a street beast of an engine or stouter....
Get your valves to lift up as high as possible to take full advantage of the heads flow capabilities. Otherwise, your just leaving power on the table for the mice and rats to feast on.
Does this mean you have to in order to build a really nice and powerful street machine? That answer is “NO!, not at all. You can put together a relatively low lift (mid or even low .500’s) and get your machine into the 11’s without a serious diet plan of the cars weight.
But back to the TF or other high flowing heads.....
Why would you buy a bitchin head and not take advantage of what it has to offer?
I swapped over to the TF heads from the ProMaxx CNC and added 1.6 rockers to the (small) Hyd. roller cam that started with .536 lift which goes to .573.
Oh yes! “A very noticeable difference” that has not been to the track for slips. Sorry... but it is highly recommended, oh yes, highly recommended!
Speed costs, enjoy the ride. Lol.
He was shifting at 6700-6800 so I cheated that number a little bit.
I was being facetious....there is no way trickflows would make my car much (if any) faster....at least not that much.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I have .606 NET lift on iron heads for a street/strip car.
If I was doing TF’s I’d run a a roller and if the valve gear would take it, I’d try to net .700 lift with them.
Way too many guys running lifts like that on street/strip stuff and it lives.
Lift is like compression ratio. You use as much as you can get with what you have.
No! Not at all.
Yes you can! It just has to be the plan first, not second, as in... “12’s were great, I’m going for 11’s now!”
No need for expensive equipment, just wise choices to start with, not change to later.
As a MoPar advertisement once said..
j par
Well-hung Member
Oh I didn't mean to imply that you we're saying that at all. And I'm pretty sure we're on the same page with all that. This entire conversation that everybody is having is not taking into consideration combination. I don't think as a matter of fact I know no one has the same exact combination. Everybody has a different cam different heads different compression different stroke intake exhaust you name it... To say one products going to do something phenomenal across-the-board with standing nitrous LOL is a forever conversation...
j par
Well-hung Member
And that video he was going on how they were labeled trick flow and how they had the 190 Port label on them for show car guys. Personally I like the fact that my speedmasters have no name on them and my Mr gasket valve covers have no name on them. Even if my Street Demon carburetors had no name on them I would be happier... I'm the one who paid the money I wish they said ( J par ) all over everything...
You can tell them Mike, I don't have any secrets.
mopar65
Well-Known Member
I guess I can say I did. Now mine is not that fast. But the 360 magnum I have came out of my friends gutted and I mean gutted 94 extended cab dakota. I think he got it down to 2900/3000 pounds with him in it. He ran a best of 7.16 at 96 mph with it. He never raced 1/4 mile. It had home ported EQ heads on it.
So when u bought the engine off him I put it in my 96 short bed dakota. I had a rocker arm come loose on the EQ heads and mess up a valve stem. So rather than get my EQ heads fixed, I just bought a set of trickflow heads,PRW roller rocker arms and mikes B3 rocker arm kit. I am guessing my 96 weighed 3400/3500 pounds with me in it. Well any way with everything the same except the switch from EQ heads to the trickflow heads. So far my dakota has ran a 7.15 at 95.56 and a 11.23 at 115 in the 1/4. All passes were made with 93 pump gas. Do you guys think my MPH in the 1/4 is low? To me i think it is. But I think my torque converter is off. It wasn't built to my engine, came with the 904 transmission i bought. Oops forgot to add the engine details.
Stock bore 2000 360 magnum block.
I think the math showes the compression at 11.1
KB107 pistions.
Stock crank and rods.
Comp 305. 550 lift sold cam
PRW 1.6 Roller rockers
Smith Brothers 3/8 push rods.
TRICK FLOW HEADS
Ported INDY CYLINDER HEAD single plane intake.
800 DP billet holley carb
Full length Hooker 1-5/8 headers
Turbo action built 904 transmission
Refreshed coan 8 inch 5600 stall converter.
4.30 gears
28x9x15 slicks.
I think my dakota should be faster than what it is now. Because I havent got to do any suspension or carb tuning yet. Woukd like to hear your opinions on my build. Next year I am all ready wanting to build a 400+ stroker small block with compression 13.1 and a bigger solid cam or solid roller.
Ok, first, I am more interested in seeing the numbers at the track than what the dyno had to say. A dynos accuracy is almost always questionable.
That being said, I previously mentioned that I hoped it would make 620. It made 631hp at 6800, and 563tq at 5100. This is with the heads as is, right out of the box, other than a spring change to better suit the camshaft.
I am anxious to see the track numbers, because the dyno operator insists the dyno is 4 to 4.5 percent low compared to before a software update that reduced the numbers. I will not make that claim, but if the track numbers support it, then that's what it is.
The takeaway is that obviously the port works very well, especially with a 2.02" valve, but lacks the cross sectional area to carry the torque curve with a 416" motor. That will limit high rpm horsepower, but makes for a broad torque curve in the mid range, which is what you want from a street/strip engine. Overall, I'm very happy with the performance considering what these heads were asked to do. We could have gotten a little more compression by nipping the heads a bit, but the goal as to test the heads as manufactured.
I still say this is the best bang for the buck head that uses a standard valvetrain. Sure you can buy another head for less money, but to bring it up to this level of quality and performance, it will cost far more. Period! You may be able to port heads yourself, but unless you are willing to do it for others for free, you have to consider the value of your time. If you are willing to do them for free, PM me your address so I can send all of my cheaper heads to you and save hundreds of dollars.....except I won't. I still have to replace all the hardware, guides, seats, etc. that will cost me more time and money. Its a hard sell to say you can get by cheaper with a lesser head.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
I dont think you are WAY off at all.
I have a 69 Dart. 3300 with me in it( i am 320)
Bone stock 360 shortblock with replacement pistons 30 in the hole
Mildly worked eddie heads( my guy just looked at them and suspect they go 255-260)
Airgap
950
260/264 flat tappet, 565/565 lift
Dougs Headers 1 5/8 into bullet type muffs
5100 flash 8 inch. 4.10 gear
Car has run 11.26@ 118.40 with a 727
Has been 11.33 at 117.70 with 904( i know the 904 vert is not right)
Flat hood, no hood-scoop. Shift at 6100 usually.
Think it ran good for what it was. Just sold the shortblock.
Heads are getting some work, and they and the heads, headers, carb, etc are going on a 12.5 comp 418
-
